Thread: Horn scale making tutorial

I realize there are some good tutorials out there, but this is how I make mine. Ive made quite a few sets now using both honey and dark horn and my results get better each time. For this tutorial I have a 8/8+ Wade and Butcher For Barbers Use that I picked up with destroyed scales. I had another set of scales that I was going to use, but the blade contacted the wedge and I didnt want to alter those scales to make them fit this blade. So I already have the horn, from a seller on ebay. He stated that one slab was wide enough for a set of scales. I was skeptical of this statement, but after drawing my scale design on the blank, it was a true statement. This is the single slab of horn split in half, soaking in neatsfoot. I used a bandsaw to cut the blank. The original blank is pictured as a reference.


After they have soaked for several days, I thin the material. The original is 5+mm thick, which is about twice as thick as I want them to be. I have a rikon 1" x 30" belt and 5" disc sander that I bought on sale for around $100. It is not necessary but saves a lot of time! I mostly use the disc sander for the sanding process because i find it is easier to control. Here they are thinned out.

Once thinned, I use double sided carpet tape to hold them together for rough shaping. I dont use one long piece because this stuff is really strong and it is very hard to get them apart later, so i use a small piece on each end and one in the middle.

now I reapply the scale template and head to the belt sander for rough shaping. The curved part of the belt allows you to match the curves. Its very easy to remove too much material very quickly, so a steady hand and light touch is crucial.

Here the scales have been roughed to the proper shape. I put a 45 degree bevel around the entire perimeter of the scales.

Now the hand sanding. It is very important to make sure all the previous grit scratch marks are gone before moving on. Otherwise, you will have to go back and do each transition over again. Horn can also be finicky with layers that want to split. If you encounter them, sand through them entirely, or fill them with thin CA glue. I round off the bevel made during rough shaping. I start with 150 and progress through 220, 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1200, and 2000 grit for this set. Here they are after final sanding.

Now i move to the buffer with flitz polish on a 6 in loose wheel. I usually do two passes to make sure all the scratch marks are glass smooth. Here they are after buffing.

Now I separate the two halves and start the sanding progression over again on the inside of the scales. This part never really gets seen, so i only go to 600 grit before going to the buffer. now they are ready for drilling pin holes and making a wedge. I usually just use packing tape to hold the two parts together and use a drill press for the holes. It is important to carefully see where your blade is going to fall on the wedge end. Dont drill your holes in the wrong spot or you will have to find a different blade to use. Here mine are all finished before pin hole drilling.

There are many ways to make scales, this is my way. It has worked very well every time. The process can be done with no power tools, it just takes a lot longer to rough shape by hand. If that's how you want to do it, I recommend using double sided tape to attach a piece of sand paper to a round object(i used a spray paint can before I had the belt sander).