Thread: Finally picked up a buffer today at Harbor Freight

I was looking for the Harbor Freight item #94393 as it was higher rated than the other one they sell which is item #61557 but couldn't find one.
I went to another Harbor Freight today and they also only had the #61557 in stock but the manager sold me the display model which is a #94393.
He only charged me $29.98 and I was happy when I got it home until I found out the nuts he gave me off the newer #61557 model do not fit the arbor on this one.
So instead of taking it back I think I am going to go to Home Depot and buy a 1/2" RH thread nut and a 1/2" LH thread nut instead of returning it.

I got a few of those. Ones grey and the other Orange ? Both the same as far as I can tell. Don't be surprised by 2 things.
1. They get hot.
2. You will generate some static electricity which can be a shocking surprise :<0)

Hmmm never tested the nuts on each other. I did make some spacers to get the wheels farther out on the shaft. Pipe cut to length does the trick.

Not the only suppliers but these are really handy! They extend the shafts and you can change buffs in a very short time:Just assure that you have them on the correct end of the buffer!!

tapered buffing spindles | eBay

Tapered Buffing Spindles - Buffing Adapters - Polishing - Caswell Inc

~Richard

For anyone thinking of working with any razors or highly finished small items, I would recommend this book!
The Complete Metalsmith: An Illustrated Handbook book by Tim McCreight | 2 available editions | Alibris Books
This is the cheapest you will find it.

My review of it:

Ok, me? I've been smithing and metal working for 60+ years.
This book, at even the original price, is fantastic for anyone that likes to work or play with metals. A couple times it saved me a whale of a lot of time and money by demystifying a process so I didn't have to re-invent the wheel.
It is not only about jewelery but a compendium of fabrication and finishing methods and information for any metals worker. Mostly about non-ferrous metals but good information about iron based metals also. The section on Plastics is a winner also.
Tim has spent a lifetime smithing and compiling the information and you can use his information with respect. And, if you need even more information, you at least know what to call the process you are looking for and search further online. Worth its weight for that alone.
I prefer the wire bound one. It lays open on a desk or bench.
~Richard
I first found the book some years back and made the mistake of loaning it out. Drat!

~Richard

Originally Posted by Geezer

Not the only suppliers but these are really handy! They extend the shafts and you can change buffs in a very short time:Just assure that you have them on the correct end of the buffer!!

tapered buffing spindles | eBay

Tapered Buffing Spindles - Buffing Adapters - Polishing - Caswell Inc

~Richard

Thanks Richard.
I just ordered these from eBay as I couldn't find 1/2"-13 tpi nuts at the hardware store and the spindles are much easier to change buffing wheels.

Originally Posted by ProudMarineDad

Thanks Richard.
I just ordered these from eBay as I couldn't find 1/2"-13 tpi nuts at the hardware store and the spindles are much easier to change buffing wheels.

Mark your buffers so that you always load them on the correct side and spin direction - this is because the spindle will create a thread in the leather centre that is best in the same position each time you change wheels over.

I have never had a problem with clearance, buffing a razor on my buffers, but I did make spacers for my 3 buffers from ½ in PVC pipe, so the wheel is at the extreme edge of the shaft and the nut fully threaded.

That will give you a ½ to a full inch of extra clearance away from the motor housing, depending on the buffer and the thickness of the wheel. I also hand tighten the wheels by holding the wheel and hand tightening the nut. It is more than enough, to keep the wheel from spinning free and allows you to change wheels quickly. The flex in the cotton wheel is enough to keep the nut tight.

On the Baldor I use a large ½ in id, flat washer in place of the thick Baldor stabilizer to move the wheel a ¼ in more of clearance.

I have 3 different buffers, a Harbor Freight (Orange), a Baldor, and a no name Taiwan, red buffer. They all have about the same space from the wheel to the housing, with the spacers.

Anyone figured out a way to eliminate the static electricity? The only one that I have that problem is my Baldor. I do buff on a rubber mat, but still get the shock, it can be annoying.

I noticed left hand thread nuts at Lowe’s, don’t know if the thread size is what you need though.

Originally Posted by Euclid440

Anyone figured out a way to eliminate the static electricity? The only one that I have that problem is my Baldor. I do buff on a rubber mat, but still get the shock, it can be annoying.

How about wearing an anti-static wrist strap like computer repairmen do? I wonder if that would work?

Euclid, I ordered this on eBay.
It will eliminate the need for nuts on the arbor and it extends the arbor length a little.

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item...012634&alt=web

Originally Posted by ProudMarineDad

Euclid, I ordered this on eBay.
It will eliminate the need for nuts on the arbor and it extends the arbor length a little.

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item...012634&alt=web

I too have been looking to expand the capabilities of my buffer that I built:
http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...-part-one.html

However I'm very concerned with the tolerances of the products that I've found online. The same machinist (referred to in the original thread as Pee Wee Herman) is also concerned. He tells me that the higher the RPM the more any imbalances (wobble) can work on the bearings. He's doing some research for me and had asked me for measurements of my (1/2") shaft. I found it to be between .497-.499 probably due to me polishing the original precision tolerance shaft that he'd had me purchase.

I doubt that you would have a dial readout setup (I don't) to check for run-out but I would think that once you have them in place listen to the machine and watch it carefully. I would think that once you shut the buffer off watching it would be of some help.

A good reference point would be to have run it before hand.

I hope this has been of some help.