Thread: Working Horn and Bone Blanks

So, I am planning to make some new horn or bone scales for my straight razor, to replace the plastic ones it currently has, and I'm finalizing the design right now. I started woodworking when I was in first grade, but I have never worked with bone or horn before. Do I just use the same tools as I would with wood, or is there anything I need to avoid? Can I use power tools? These are simple questions that I could probably guess at, but I just want to be sure.

Thanks,
Spiros

Simple power tools will work just fine. My only suggestion is to go slow.

I do most of my work with a dremel on a slow setting and plenty of good old fashion elbow grease when sanding. I've not had any issues so far. I have heard that bone will scorch and discolor if you work it to fast.

Safety goggles and work it outside with a mask on.

Wood working tools are fine for bone and horn. I work bone on a bandsaw, a 9 inch disc sander and a 1 x 42 inch belt sander and never had any issues with the bone scorching or discoloring. Here is a link to a tutorial I did a while ago on making a traditional set of horn scales. Hope the link works. If not it's buried several pages back in the work shop forum. http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...-way-i-do.html I use the same process for working bone.

The only thing I can see that is not already mentioned os to make sure your material is thin enough. It is possible to scorch the bone and once it is scorched it is really hard to get it off, the discoloration goes fairly deep, it does however take some effort. If your material is too thick it will not flex properly and the pivot pin will wind up taking too much stress, or you will feel the need to use a spacer and not a proper wedge. There have been a few discussions on wedges.

Thanks everyone for the replies! That was exactly what I was looking for. The pieces I was looking at were 1/8" thick. Is that a good starting point?

It is a great starting point. Often horn scales wind wind up a little over 0.100 to 0.110 and an 1/8 is 0.125 so it is very close. Bone I try to get a little thinner as it is a bit stiffer and it ends around 0.090. I have gone thinner with bone but it starts to get a little fragile. Of course it does play a little case by case. Your wedge taper should match the taper on the tang of the razor and micro fastener screws for mocking up are priceless.

i like using a cabinet scraper to shape horn. takes off material in a nice relaxed fashion and leaves a good finish.

Going to start some horn scales myself soon so thanks for this thread

A common utility knife may be used as a scraper if held perpendicular to the surface . Scrape diagonally to any scratches. That has worked for me for years. Take apart a scissors and wrap the GA doe and part of the blade with tape and it works well also.
~Richard

I work with bone a lot in guitar repair. A belt sander using an 80 grit belt is an option for quickly removing and shaping bone. Like others have stated you can scorch bone be careful. It can really stink when worked on a belt sander too just so you know.