Thread: How to preserve blade etching

I am restoring a George Butler & Co razor. I am concerned about damaging the etching on the blade...and yet there is more discolouration and patina to remove. There's no rust or scaling...any advice? Will sanding with 600, 800, 1000, 2000 dig into the etch? Sorry for poor pic quality.

Etching looks pretty strong. I would work slow and try to avoid most of the blade etch. You should be OK on the shank. Do hand sanding so you have more control of metal removal. Good luck.

If it were mine I'd get rid of any active rust and leave those beautiful age marks. Just me though.

New to site how do I post a question or start a thread about razor restoration . Thanks Immy

That looks like a good candidate for steel wool and WD-40. Finish it with mothers polish and all should be well.

Saving an etch is delicate work, yours looks pretty deep though.

Lapping film works exceptionally well. For the blade start with 1k or higher with a stiff backer. Small pieces of wet & dry or film and a pencil on the tip of the eraser works well to sand around the etch, take your time.

Micro Mesh sanding pads and paper work well for cleaning up around the etch when used carefully, but use lapping film over the etch for maximum performance.

I buy my film from Thor Labs, but you can buy single sheets from some woodworking and carving supplies. Diamond lapping film is 10 times the cost, but do not produce 10 times the performance, Silicone and Aluminum Oxides

Here is an excellent post by Geezer on darkening bluing and high grit sanding, (Revealing Etchings). The trick to cold bluing is scrupulously clean surface and a bit of heat from a hair dryer or heat gun.

Originally Posted by Immy

New to site how do I post a question or start a thread about razor restoration . Thanks Immy

QUICK HIGHJACK:

Immy - your profile says that you have started 6 posts already, beginning in January??

In case you have forgotten. No Need To Reply.

You always will have better and quicker results cross direction sanding, unless you are laying down a satin type directional finish. Because you lay down a stria pattern then remove it cross directionally, then lay down another and remove it.

I hand sand 10 – 20 strokes in one direction, then sand 90 degrees to the stria you just laid down, when you can. Circles will leave circular scratches that are hard to remove, and I feel I have better control directionally.

Once you remove all you staining, rust or pitting, then you want to lay an even stria pattern that will be removed by the next grit. You can feel when the paper stops cutting, replace it. Paper is cheap.

Often folks think a shiny 1k finish is stria free, but look at it at 100 or 400X and you will see the scratches, even high grit polish leaves stria.

Originally Posted by HARRYWALLY

If it were mine I'd get rid of any active rust and leave those beautiful age marks. Just me though.

I tend to agree...though I feel I should be trying to bring it back to its "old self". Hard to decide...I really like the vintage look.