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Thread: No drills in Sheffield?

  1. #21
    Senior Member karlej's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sharptonn View Post
    Unless you have the blade walking forward and hitting the wedge, there is no need to bush the hole, IMO.
    I also do not use thrust washers with old Sheffields in horn. To me, they work best as they were made.
    Just me!
    I agree no bushing is generally needed. I do frequently find Sheffield razors in horn with thrust washers. I just finished a Wosti today that had them and I reinstalled them. It was a pre-1890 razor. I do not find them on the early razors but I'll take a WAG and say they are common enough in 1870 and later blades. I think they make the blade pivoting smoother and keeps the scales from rubbing on the tang when closed. I install them as routine unless someone specifies not too. I think like in manufacturing today companies are always trying to lean out their processes. If they had not served a positive function the makers would have simply left them out and saved a penny a razor.

  2. #22
    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    I have always felt thrust washers keep the scales cleaner, so that the pivot is on the inside of the washer and the blade, not the scale.

    I put them in also. I use a smashed # 0 microfasteners, brass washer or originals. Just smack them with a flat hammer on the anvil, a couple hits. It gets them pretty flat, close to the thickness and diameter of the originals.

    You might have to touch up the hole with a 1/16th in bit in a pin vise, but usually not, the hole doesn’t shrink, like you would think…

    I too used to bush them, peened brass rod & drill or loose tubing, but have not for some time and really don’t feel the need. I do peen a bit tight.
    Last edited by Euclid440; 06-06-2016 at 12:02 AM.

  3. #23
    Razor Vulture sharptonn's Avatar
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    Each to his own, or YMMV, I always say! I have not seen any old horn-scaled Sheffields which were originally equipped with brass spacers (or thrust washers) personally, but have done the deed more than a few times.

    This old Greaves, for example. I bushed the pin-hole and added thin brass spacers. After a while, it has become too loose to use and never closed well, had to guide the heavy blade in.

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    After this morning's shave, I had to do something, so I unpinned the top and rid it of the spacers, filing out the aluminum pop-rivet bushing, reassembled it and peened all together with a new pin.
    It can be seen that the tang is firmly against the horn and the blade closes center, in spite of a slight warp to the spine AND the scales. Nice and tight, stands-up proud.

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    These pics are to demonstrate what I posted above.
    Some have different experiences, but it works a treat (for me) most of the time with old Sheffields.
    Back like it came!

    There are certainly times where spacers and bushings are needed in them, I agree.

    However, this one just did not work with them.
    Last edited by sharptonn; 06-08-2016 at 02:07 AM.
    "Don't be stubborn. You are missing out."
    I rest my case.

  4. The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to sharptonn For This Useful Post:

    dinnermint (06-07-2016), Euclid440 (06-11-2016), KenG (06-08-2016)

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    Some pics of the hole - I tried to get some views that show how it looks punched. Besides not being round, you can see a little ridge that looks like it was double strike maybe.

    Also note the crack to the left of the tang writing- I wonder if that happened when the letters were stamped- maybe the steel was cooling.

    This is for my grandson Taylor just turned 9 - I showed him the name so he is happy about it. I have a few years to finish.

    Blade etching was faint under the rust I could make out 'india steel' and on the tang 'cast steel' its near wedge 6/8 so I guess 1840 to 1860.
    Last edited by KenG; 06-11-2016 at 01:51 PM.
    Euclid440 likes this.

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    Euclid440 (06-11-2016)

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