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Thread: No drills in Sheffield?
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06-05-2016, 11:04 PM #21
I agree no bushing is generally needed. I do frequently find Sheffield razors in horn with thrust washers. I just finished a Wosti today that had them and I reinstalled them. It was a pre-1890 razor. I do not find them on the early razors but I'll take a WAG and say they are common enough in 1870 and later blades. I think they make the blade pivoting smoother and keeps the scales from rubbing on the tang when closed. I install them as routine unless someone specifies not too. I think like in manufacturing today companies are always trying to lean out their processes. If they had not served a positive function the makers would have simply left them out and saved a penny a razor.
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06-05-2016, 11:56 PM #22
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Thanked: 3215I have always felt thrust washers keep the scales cleaner, so that the pivot is on the inside of the washer and the blade, not the scale.
I put them in also. I use a smashed # 0 microfasteners, brass washer or originals. Just smack them with a flat hammer on the anvil, a couple hits. It gets them pretty flat, close to the thickness and diameter of the originals.
You might have to touch up the hole with a 1/16th in bit in a pin vise, but usually not, the hole doesn’t shrink, like you would think…
I too used to bush them, peened brass rod & drill or loose tubing, but have not for some time and really don’t feel the need. I do peen a bit tight.Last edited by Euclid440; 06-06-2016 at 12:02 AM.
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06-07-2016, 07:37 PM #23
Each to his own, or YMMV, I always say! I have not seen any old horn-scaled Sheffields which were originally equipped with brass spacers (or thrust washers) personally, but have done the deed more than a few times.
This old Greaves, for example. I bushed the pin-hole and added thin brass spacers. After a while, it has become too loose to use and never closed well, had to guide the heavy blade in.
After this morning's shave, I had to do something, so I unpinned the top and rid it of the spacers, filing out the aluminum pop-rivet bushing, reassembled it and peened all together with a new pin.
It can be seen that the tang is firmly against the horn and the blade closes center, in spite of a slight warp to the spine AND the scales. Nice and tight, stands-up proud.
These pics are to demonstrate what I posted above.
Some have different experiences, but it works a treat (for me) most of the time with old Sheffields.
Back like it came!
There are certainly times where spacers and bushings are needed in them, I agree.
However, this one just did not work with them.Last edited by sharptonn; 06-08-2016 at 02:07 AM.
"Don't be stubborn. You are missing out."
I rest my case.
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The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to sharptonn For This Useful Post:
dinnermint (06-07-2016), Euclid440 (06-11-2016), KenG (06-08-2016)
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06-11-2016, 01:48 PM #24
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Thanked: 14
Some pics of the hole - I tried to get some views that show how it looks punched. Besides not being round, you can see a little ridge that looks like it was double strike maybe.
Also note the crack to the left of the tang writing- I wonder if that happened when the letters were stamped- maybe the steel was cooling.
This is for my grandson Taylor just turned 9 - I showed him the name so he is happy about it. I have a few years to finish.
Blade etching was faint under the rust I could make out 'india steel' and on the tang 'cast steel' its near wedge 6/8 so I guess 1840 to 1860.Last edited by KenG; 06-11-2016 at 01:51 PM.
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The Following User Says Thank You to KenG For This Useful Post:
Euclid440 (06-11-2016)