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06-07-2016, 09:49 PM #1
- Join Date
- Sep 2014
- Location
- Bulgaria
- Posts
- 840
Thanked: 168We will see after i tare it a part bolt by bot clean it , sand blast it passe it throu anti rust ortophosphoric acid . polish the bedways with methall wool , painte it and assemble it with a quality grease and oil
After a some adjustements it will be like brand new and there is nothing broken in it it is cast iron and the bushings are brass It came with a extra spindle pair iof bushings
Now it worth every penny from the near 380 dolars i paid for it shiping included
It will survive me a after me someone else will work on it .no matter that is manifactured the 20 or 30 years of the century
The teeth of the weels for the threads is 1.5 modul so with one teeth cuting tooland a rod of cast iron i can make the missing weels for the threads and this will cost me 100 bucs for the instrument and the material at the worst case scenario
its a beast - they dont make those bad pupies anymore It is class of its own
A chubby buldog version 140 smeters or 56 inch long with 160 mm chuck TOZ
It need 4 or 5 Horse powermotor to feed it Its small tyranosaum For a man that can work the lathe gave big opportunitys for home mashiningLast edited by RusenBG; 06-07-2016 at 09:58 PM.
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06-07-2016, 11:13 PM #2
A nice find! You have the correct attitude for renewing it. Complete tear-down...with photographs along the way of each assembly..and connector. Ooh, don't make my mistake of assembling the spindle into the headstock without first putting the drive-belt in place I have helped a few guys to rework such machines over the years. look bad but will be working long into the future. New you would be looking at USD$1800 for a similar new machine.
Good items are the link drive belts of this type available most all over the world, in that case you need not have the drive belt in place till you add the motor and then assemble the belt with lathe and motor in place.:
vibration-free-link-belt
~RichardBe yourself; everyone else is already taken.
- Oscar Wilde
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06-08-2016, 03:54 AM #3
- Join Date
- Sep 2014
- Location
- Bulgaria
- Posts
- 840
Thanked: 168Richard im doing this for the second time Iwont be with pictures along the way but on thr end will have some
i have a lot brand new V belts from rusian UMZ tractor
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06-08-2016, 04:08 AM #4
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06-10-2016, 10:03 PM #5
Nice. Hey I saw in your picture it is already 2017! Can you tell me who won the US Presidential Election by chance??? Just kidding.
German blade snob!
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06-11-2016, 06:50 AM #6
- Join Date
- Sep 2014
- Location
- Bulgaria
- Posts
- 840
Thanked: 168He he thats a vendor picture - i guess he did not set up his camera right
The pics do not show the real condition - they are much worse than the reality
my pictures will be better
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06-11-2016, 07:10 AM #7
- Join Date
- Jul 2015
- Location
- Central Oregon
- Posts
- 789
Thanked: 98Looks like it will clean up nice, I have machine tools too, seems to be a lot of it for sale around here now, just got a tiny indexer for my small lathe.
Have fun Rusen.
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06-12-2016, 08:33 AM #8
Yep. I remember my lathe has a leather belt that has little metal loops in each end & you put the belt on & the loops go in between each other like fingers & a pin goes through the loops & holds the belt together. I have been trying to get it over here. I sent a text message to my buddy but he may have not gotten it because he told me he would help me out. One of these days, hopefully soon..........................
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06-12-2016, 02:49 PM #9
Darn, the only new flat belt maker around the area here closed up about 6 years back. He made the belts to size and I had him skive some leather for me. My first strop!!
The companies still manufacture belts for the popular machines:
flat+drive+belts+suppliers
Cheap too!
Have fun!
~RichardBe yourself; everyone else is already taken.
- Oscar Wilde
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06-12-2016, 08:50 PM #10
- Join Date
- Sep 2014
- Location
- Bulgaria
- Posts
- 840
Thanked: 168Now with a flat belt is easy - get a piece of natural taned cowhide and cut a rellacement for the old belt The fittings are not nrccesary to be iron You can cut the leather or specific material diagonaly choosing the right direction Glue it with a gum glue for old inside tires or a leather glue Squeese it for better adhesion
After make 2 rows of holes and 1 row throu the glued ribon with a 1.2 - 1.8 mm drill bit
Next go to the fishing store and ask for 2 mters of theyre thickest or strongest fishing line that is like Dyynema - multy fiber line
Get a needle and saw it , throw the holes ,as you make the knot on the outside at the end
Cover the string or the line with litle beeswax This will be strong I repair old watter pump that way and it still works I saw a buffing weels from old cotton tisues After you drill it it is sawed very easy
Now those small lathes dont need so powerfull conections as the biggest lathes that are drived by the central shaft system on the roof or the rooms and the string conestion is much quiet comparing to the methal that will make 500 or 1000 click click - s on minute
Or maybe ding ding hah ah ah a
Now if you put the leather on a flat surface and if you are skilled get a skiner knife a chisel or kiridashi an thin the leather for abbout 6 - 6 sm or 2 - 3 inshes conicaly
Glue the conection on a big wide ribbon and if it i made well you dont need to saw it
We make chipings in a range of 0.1 to 0.6 0.8 mm thick with our small lathes or a cast iron or aluminium or brass
Now instrumental steels are stromger but i do not believe to have problems
You can also make new pulleys from everything - delrin wood aluminium brass cast iron
Or get mashine the flat one with a V groove in the midle and put a V belt for better powerLast edited by RusenBG; 06-12-2016 at 08:52 PM.
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Geezer (06-12-2016)