Thread: Not removing the pitting

Like Grazor said, it depends on the grind. Also personal preference. I prefer to leave a little bit of the pitting for character. Remember the razor is 100 years or older. It has history and for me I cannot erase that. If I can remove major rust and most pitting the razor is still serviceable and can continue gaining history.

So, what have you tried on the blade?

I start with 000 steel wool and WD40, then test with a hard backer, (wine cork or rubber bushing) and 1k Wet & Dry. That will give you a good idea how deep the pitting is.

If you are going to leave some pitting, treat the blade with EvapoRust to stop the rust.

600 Wet and Dry will get a lot of that and will easily polish with 1k then metal polish, (Mothers or Maas), or Chrome Oxide on a buffer.

It’s not heat treat, it is tarnish and rust. The blade looks like it has already been sanded or buffed, that is why the etch is thin.

What do the scales look like? Almost look like cell rot, (2nd photo, over the arrow)

Try some 1k with a wine cork backer on the back side, and see how much comes off.

Originally Posted by Euclid440

It’s not heat treat, it is tarnish and rust. The blade looks like it has already been sanded or buffed, that is why the etch is thin.

What do the scales look like? Almost look like cell rot, (2nd photo, over the arrow)

Try some 1k with a wine cork backer on the back side, and see how much comes off.

I doubt it's cell rot. The original scales are horn and all the work done to the blade was done by me using steel wool and 3 weeks of off and on mothers polish. I feel I have plenty of steel to work with but I'll probably remove the etching if I try.


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It could have been stored with a cell rot razor, or got wet and rusted heavily. It is an old razor and much of the history or vintage razors is unknown.

Might want to see if it will take an edge before you invest more time in it.