Thread: What compound to what buffing wheel

I'm thinking about switching up my higher grit buffing wheels. Currently I'm using
Loose cloth wheel- red Jeweler's Rouge
Loose cloth wheel- blue Jeweler's Rouge
Loose cloth wheel- wight bar
Sewn cotton wheel- green bar
Sewn cotton wheel- brown bar
Sewn cotton wheel- black bar
Anyone have any suggestions.
Also I'm thinking about trying out a sisal wheel. What grits do you use them on.

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I'd skip the sisal wheels. You'll find that the compound does not stick to them very well. I use the sewn cotton wheels for all my different buffing compounds and it works pretty well.

Depends on what you are buffing, the condition of the metal to begin with and what you are trying to achieve.

I use sewn, 3 inch sewn cotton wheels for all greased and greaseless.

A Loose cotton with white final polish. (P-112 for plastics and horn and P22 for final steel polishing.

Also dust with Haze remover or cornstarch and buffing with a clean loose cotton wheel for final polish.

Here is the Caswell’s Polishing Tutorial and a great chart on the last page.

You do not need to use all the compounds to get a high polish finish.

Jantz sells some grease based compounds that are made to load on sisal wheels LA348 Fine Cut & Color Compound and LA312 Medium Cut & Color Compound. Made especially for use with the Sisal Wheels. Use to whisk away the polishing marks left by fine sanding belts or greaseless compounds. They break down as used to produce a smooth, scratch free surface on most metals. Approximately 3 lb. tubes. I have used these for years with great success. I also use these compounds in place of emery on spiral sewn cotton wheels, but I think they are emery based. Caswell also sells a treated spiral sewn wheel that is good when you need more pressure on the wheel to remove scratches from previous grease based compounds. You are going to find that unlike the greaseless compounds these grease based compound require some pressure to cut efficiently and you will have to teach yourself how much pressure that is. I do not know how to explain it in print. Keep the water handy.
I use the LA312 on sisal after 600 greaseless before hand sanding. It makes hand sanding easier. The LA348 after hand sanding with 600 wet/dry and oil to remove the hand sanding marks. It's easy to see when all the hand sanding marks are gone because you hand sand heel to toe and buff back to bevel.
Good luck.
Karl

personally I use my sewn cotton on black and green then I'll use loose cotton for my white and my blue In that order. That's for my steel and just a heads up black will take etching off ask me how I know �� U will also notice there will be build up or grease left over from the compounds I use brake fluid to remove it before using the next wheel to avoid contamination...

My woods I use Tripoli on sewn then white loose cotton, I also use different wheels for woods to metals

My horn and acrylics, kirinite polyester resin, I use black sewn then white loose cotton...

I hope that helps!
Good luck!

I just copied what Glen had posted and have found it to work well. Sewn wheels for greaseless, emory and tripoli then to loose wheels after that. This was a helpful thread for me

http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...lustrated.html

I'm with Karlej on this - a sisal wheel for the high cut/low polish compound, moving to sewn wheels and loose for the final buffing as the cut to polish ratio changes.