Thread: Flattening Horn

Euclid-What if I just threw 'em in a pot of hot or boiling water until they soften up? Of course handling them with tongs and gloves!

The target temp is 300°

You have to be REALLY carefull using dry heat, especially on light colored or streaked horn as it can change color and keep in mind that the streaks actually flex differently from each other

I like steam myself but I use it AFTER I have Shaped, Thinned, Boiled, and Pressed the Horn...

I am working on using Hot Oil much like they did in the past right now,, as it can goto and hold easily at 375° so it should make the horn pliable without the burning and color change issues

Originally Posted by gssixgun

The target temp is 300°

You have to be REALLY carefull using dry heat, especially on light colored or streaked horn as it can change color and keep in mind that the streaks actually flex differently from each other

I like steam myself but I use it AFTER I have Shaped, Thinned, Boiled, and Pressed the Horn...

I am working on using Hot Oil much like they did in the past right now,, as it can goto and hold easily at 375° so it should make the horn pliable without the burning and color change issues

I agree completely about being careful with applying direct heat, expecially with Honey Horn. With that in mind I still believe the easiest way to straighten horn, after it has been rough shaped is to use a hair straightener! Wrap scales in tin foil and heat for no more than 25-30 seconds on the Honey Horn, Dark Horn a bit longer is OK. Works great every time, perfectly flat. Takes about 5 minutes or so. See previous post on this subject. http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...ml#post1587417

I have used boiling water, and as said it is much easier to bend a thinner, ready made, scale, that a thick, plate.

I use a wooden jaw, woodworking vice, and have had good luck using 3 dowels and over bend just a bit, there is a bit of spring back once cooled.

And the result: I rough-cut them, flatted the inner faces, and then threw them in a pot of near-boiling water for a few minutes (before I saw the posts on thicknessing and shaping them first-Mr. Impatience, that's me!). Then I clamped them up together overnight, then double-side taped them together for shaping and thicknessing on the belts up to a 320 flexible belt for shaping. I was concerned about delamination on that rough orange grain per Xiaotuzi's advice, and certainly had to be very careful on the 50-grit hogging belt to avoid them getting grabby and rough, but things went much easier on the 240 and 320, where I smoothed it all out.

Then I hand-sanded up to 3000, with a final contouring and polish buffing with Fabuluster on loose cotton. I love that stuff, and it practically makes them glow, not that you can tell from my crappy photographs.



SO I'm pretty pleased with them, and can't wait to get that Ern Ator finished up and in these scales. Thanks for the advice all! Aaron

Those scales are absolutely gorgeous. Excellent results! Thanks for this thread, I learned a few things here!

Beautiful scales. They do glow. Can't wait to see them mounted. They will really dress up a blade properly.

I have tried baking in oven, hair dryer, and steam. Steam has work d the best for me. I steam them, clamp them, and then put them in cold water. Then I pin according to previous bends so when/if they lose flatness they will take advantage of natural bends.