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Thread: Word of caution
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09-10-2016, 02:50 PM #11
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09-11-2016, 03:36 PM #12
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Thanked: 3215A large Zip lock bag near the buffer, zip it shut, when not in use and when the mask is in it. Put the mask in the bag the same way each time. I put the outside of the mask on the label side of the bag. When the mask get dirty on the outside replace it and the Zip lock bag.
If you use a paper mask, buy good ones, they are not that expensive and cheaper if you buy, by the box. If you are doing a dusty operation, (like rust removal), use a good sealing rubber mask.
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The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to Euclid440 For This Useful Post:
MisterClean (09-17-2016), MW76 (09-11-2016), ScoutHikerDad (09-23-2016)
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09-11-2016, 03:39 PM #13
Another important point that I didn't mention. For those of you that use a replaceable filter type mask, get "wet ones" or equivalent cleaning towels to assure that the gasket/ the part that meets your face is clean and clear of any dust. Let the mask dry before putting it on. I made the mistake "once," I wish, of putting on a dirty mask. My face took a week to heal.
~RichardLast edited by Geezer; 09-11-2016 at 03:42 PM.
Be yourself; everyone else is already taken.
- Oscar Wilde
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Geezer For This Useful Post:
MisterClean (09-17-2016), MW76 (09-11-2016)
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09-17-2016, 12:23 PM #14
Great advice. It always blows my mind when I see pics or videos of guys grinding blades or making scales with no protection or paper painters dust masks (almost no protection) in a shop full of expensive tools. A good full face respirator is worth every penny. I worked in an aircraft composite shop for a bit and the fit test and issue of a respirator was mandatory.
This is definitely a neglected piece of gear. Should be WASHED frequently in a bucket of warm water with a drop of soap, dried and inspected, fresh filters as needed , and stored in a clean ziplock. Proper fit is of course very important, no leaks at the seals and valves that work properly. Also proper cartridges for dust or fume.
G10 is bad along with any synthetic material , sawdust is a known carcinogen, bone and ivory are horrible, sanded glues and finishes, exotic woods , EVERYTHING we sand in the shop should be kept out of the lungs.
This is what I use, not cheap but a good investment.
https://www.amazon.com/3M-7800S-M-Fu...words=3m+7800s
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The Following User Says Thank You to AKmik For This Useful Post:
MisterClean (09-17-2016)
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09-17-2016, 06:24 PM #15
Thanks Harry, I ordered one today.
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09-19-2016, 04:29 PM #16
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09-19-2016, 04:31 PM #17
Possibly BJ but I just can't remember. I try very hard to keep hands clear of the face before decon takes place. I also work with hazardous waste with my agency/job so I am or suppose to be fully in tune with OSHA and Federal DOT requirements when it comes to chemicals. But there is always a first time for sure.
German blade snob!