Thread: washers

Originally Posted by whoever

Is that ID or OD ?

Is 1/16 the average pin diameter for W&B razors?

Originally Posted by whoever

Is that ID or OD ?

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ID

Originally Posted by whoever

Is 1/16 the average pin diameter for W&B razors?

Yes 1/16" is an approximate size for SR's in general, some are slightly larger (Sheffields) some are slightly smaller (Solingens) but a 1/16" rod is the goto size and will work in most restore applications

The #0 Washers will fit the 1/16 Rod

HOWEVER

These are not exact dimensions there is a bit of "Slop" in there, sometimes especially with the NiAg rod it can be a tight fit on some of the SS washers..

Restoring Vintage razors is not an exact science you have to make things work out

Originally Posted by cudarunner

Question:

What are you working on with 1/4" rod???

Ooh. I was practicing with popsicle sticks
Obvioslyv1/4 would be to large for that, it was late and didn't think you would question my size. Its good GsSixGun put up a chart.

Originally Posted by whoever

Ooh. I was practicing with popsicle sticks
Obvioslyv1/4 would be to large for that, it was late and didn't think you would question my size. Its good GsSixGun put up a chart.

hehehhe, I like that!

I was just wondering about the size as Not Every Project that's discussed here has to do with razors. I've heard of much larger sized brass rod having to be peened.

Anyone know a goof place to get #0 washers? Knifemakers.com has not heard of it.

Originally Posted by whoever

Anyone know a goof place to get #0 washers? Knifemakers.com has not heard of it.

Brass And Stainless are both available here:

https://www.microfasteners.com/

Here's Brass:

https://www.microfasteners.com/searc...keep_https=yes

Originally Posted by gssixgun

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ID



Yes 1/16" is an approximate size for SR's in general, some are slightly larger (Sheffields) some are slightly smaller (Solingens) but a 1/16" rod is the goto size and will work in most restore applications

The #0 Washers will fit the 1/16 Rod

HOWEVER

These are not exact dimensions there is a bit of "Slop" in there, sometimes especially with the NiAg rod it can be a tight fit on some of the SS washers..

Restoring Vintage razors is not an exact science you have to make things work out

Is there a go to methodvto deal with slop ?

Here is a good resource for restoration supplies and how to. It is the “Sticky”, first post in the Workshop Forum.

Welcome to the Workshop: How do I / Where do I / What do I / answers are here

There are also a number of post on pinning razors, with additional sources for washers and collars, including making them yourself from sheet stock, it’s not that hard. Just do an Advance Search, upper right corner of the page.

Originally Posted by whoever

Is there a go to methodvto deal with slop ?

Actually a tiny bit of "Slop" in the build is a good thing as long as it is toward the Loose side

You have to understand that most razors are NOT exact, the tang is NOT square in fact they are often off from front to back, and top to bottom..
if you try and get a Tight Perfect fit most often something goes "Snap"

If you are going to order from Microfasteners save yourself a ton of heartache and get these Bolts and Nuts for Mockups to test fit and function before final pinning


HBB0012 - 0-80 x 3/4 - Hex Head Machine Screws - Brass - Micro Fasteners

HNB0080 - 0-80 - Hex Nuts - Brass - Micro Fasteners


Making the 3 sizes of Mock tangs also eliminates many issues


1/8 - 3/16 - 1/4

http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...tip-bench.html

Dang that tip is 8 years old now

“Actually a tiny bit of "Slop" in the build is a good thing as long as it is toward the Loose side”

“You have to understand that most razors are NOT exact, the tang is NOT square in fact they are often off from front to back, and top to bottom..”
if you try and get a Tight Perfect fit most often something goes "Snap"

Yes, often overlooked is the relationship between the wedge (a true wedge) and the shape of the tang.

Take a razor, with a thin set of scales (an old Ivory or thin Horn scaled Sheffield), and slowly run the blade from fully closed, to the full open shaving position. Note the flex in the scales, at the different positions. Also note the blade moves a bit forward and back at the pivot and the tension changes with position.

The wedge is much more than a spacer keeping the scales separated. Also note the thinness of the old wedges, even for the large thick spine Sheffield’s.

If you build in a bid of clearance in the pivot hole, (and the wedge for adjustment) for the pin to move and a bit of clearance between the tip of the closed razor and the edge of the wedge, it will save you headaches and heart break if they crack.

Also the pivot, just needs to be tight enough to hold the razor up, from the scales, when open, keep it closed, and no tighter.

Those old guys did know a thing or two about what they were doing, and I don’t think we fully understand all they did and why they did it, except that it works.
I always try to re-use the original wedge, or replicate them, with old razors being rescaled.