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Thread: Need advice to polish with buffer machine

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    Senior Member blabbermouth RezDog's Avatar
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    I have the full range but I have yet to drop below 240. Most of the time I stick with 600, emery, white rouge, and crox
    It's not what you know, it's who you take fishing!

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    Senior Member BeJay's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RezDog View Post
    I have the full range but I have yet to drop below 240. Most of the time I stick with 600, emery, white rouge, and crox
    Same here. As a matter of fact, I rarely go below 600 on anything but heavier wedges.
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    B.J.

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    Senior Member blabbermouth RezDog's Avatar
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    I actually use my buffer very little and do a lot of the work by hand.
    It's not what you know, it's who you take fishing!

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    Senior Member Panama60's Avatar
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    I'm also thinking about buying a bench buffer, so here are some things that I am considering...
    Take a tour of your local resources before buying a bench buffer. Go to your local hardware stores and see what the most common arbor size offered is.
    At my local Lowes', they offer 2 sizes of shafts on their machines, 1/2" and 3/4", yet they only stock wheels with 5/8" arbors (and no adapter plates).
    I've found most of my wheels at Ace Hardware and a local thrift (used) hardware shop called This and That. See what type and size of wheels are offered.
    4" spiral sewn is the size your looking for, but I'm still using a couple of 6" sisal buffing wheels (less time on the wheel and watch the heat) just because of
    my budget restraints. I have some 4" spiral sewn wheels that I use for my finest grits and 1 that I have dedicated as "clean" (no compound). See what kind
    of compounds are offered (not all compounds will be straight razor steel friendly), do some online research to see what you will need and what you can get.
    Once you know where to get your supplies, you will know more of what to look for in your buffer. I am using a converted bench grinder that has too short of
    shafts and too high of rpm. I have to be very careful not to ding or burn my steel. I don't know if this will help, but happy hunting.

    Sorry, forgot to add...I am currently using white polishing, CrOx (green) and jeweler's rouge (red) compounds and have found this selection to be lacking. I
    will looking to add more to get the full range.
    Last edited by Panama60; 09-24-2016 at 12:07 PM.
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    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    So, as with most thing in this hobby, there are, a lot of variables and results can vary dramatically. Different buffers, speeds, (slower is better, but for $30, a HF buffer is hard to beat), compounds, wheel, sizes, thickness, wheel materials and loose/sewn (hardness/softness), greased compounds, and most importantly, technique, (pressure).

    Good advice from Roy, and others. I have all the greaseless grits. A lot depends on the condition of the metal you are finishing and what your expectations are.

    When I started buffing, I restored beaters. Now days, I buy razors in much better condition or don’t always go for a mirror finish. it just takes way, too much time and you remove too much detail by using aggressive grits. I do not like the look of an over buffed razor, where the detail, has been rounded off.

    I find myself hand sanding more, and buffing with greased compounds to finish.

    Mostly I use 600 and 400, then greased, on razors that just need a clean-up. You will find, you can get very different finishes from a 600 wheel, depending on how much compound is on the wheel and technique. Experiment with it, I keep 3 wheels loaded with various amounts of 600 on them.

    I too, almost always start with 600, then you will have a very good idea of where you will need, to go from there.

    A good metal finish is built, much like, a painted finish or a razor edge. How you get there, really does affect the final look. There are mirror finishes and there are MIRROR (Black) finishes.

    With polishing there is a lot to learn, and like honing, you can only get it with, hands on experience.

    Do use 4 inch wheels for greaseless, but buffer speed does not make all that much difference in performance. Quench in water frequently, when buffing. Make sure to dry the blade, your greaseless will last longer. The finger technique on the back of the blade, is the best way to gage heat.

    Start with 400 and 600, lower if you are doing beaters. Experiment with greased, there are tons of greased compounds, find the combinations that work, for you.

    Polishing is another rabbit hole, I have boxes of compounds, wheels and still experimenting, making my wheels and gluing on finishing abrasives.

    While there is some baseline equipment, your mileage may vary.

    Start with 4 inch spiral sewn wheels, 2 per greaseless compound, 400 & 600, Black emery, Green stainless and white to finish, (one per compound). Lately I have been using Jantz pink scratch less to finish. I use 6inch wheel to finish on greased compounds. And 8-inch lose wheel for final buffing without compound or buff hand rubbed, metal polish.

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    I used Nakayamas for my house mainaman's Avatar
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    80, 240, 400, 600 greaseless, and when done right you don't even have to go to emery or rogue.
    Stefan

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    Senior Member blabbermouth eddy79's Avatar
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    Senior Member Oustoura's Avatar
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    i was wondering if anyone has a site to commad these greaseless pastes to europe?

    i checked on google but found nothing.

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    'with that said' cudarunner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oustoura View Post
    i was wondering if anyone has a site to commad these greaseless pastes to europe?

    i checked on google but found nothing.
    Perhaps this will be of some help.

    Greaseless Polishing Compounds - Caswell
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