Thread: My first vintage cleanup and shave

A while back my wife brought home three straight razors from an estate sale. One of the three, a Griffon Carbo-Magnetic was in pretty good shape. The blade had oxidation but no rust, there were no nicks or chips, and the scales were healthy, but one of them was bowed inwards and touched the opposite one.
I cleaned up the oxidation with brasso. I would have liked to buff it and go further, but don’t want to lose the etching. Sanitized with Lysol spray, figuring the brasso would probably have killed most anything.


I had ordered new scales, but that problem turned out to be easy - Just laid it on the flat scale, slid a letter opener in where they were touching, and put a hair dryer on it for a couple of minutes. It straightened out beautifully.
I could see a bit of reflection off the edge, so last night I worked on the blade. Set a bevel on my 800 grit, then worked through 4000, 8000, and finished off with 1 micron diamond paste on a strop and finally Crox.
This morning I gave it 120 passes on leather strop, then had one of the best straight razor shaves yet, close and really comfortable. The shave was better than what I get from my two new razors (Dovo Special and Boker King Cutter). I know this one didn’t need much work, but now I’m really fired up to start haunting those estate sales :-).

Anyone know of a way to get a bit more shine without losing the etching?

Cool tip about the letter opener/hair dryer. I don't 'know' that it would be a better shine, but I've used Semichrome, Wenol, or Flitz on many blades and it never bothered the etching. Will remove gold wash in a heartbeat though. Nice blade, I have a Carbo-Magnetic and it is a great shaver.

Props on the restore!

I would keep an eye on those scales. I'd bet that they're good to go, but you never know if they'll shift on you or not.

The only thing I can think of to use that ***could*** be safe on the etch is something like Flitz. However, I have only used that on razors whose etch was on the way out and not concerned if they were completely lost. Your best bet is to tape off the etching with clear/matte cellophane tape and carefully trimming around it with a razor blade (DE or xacto) very gently.

That looks like a pretty light etching. You've really got to decide between shine or the etching with a blade like that. You can cover the etch with tape and polish around it with a dremel, but it will leave patina within the etched area. I think it looks good as is. A little patina gives it character.

Originally Posted by BeJay

I think it looks good as is. A little patina gives it character.

I agree, I don't mind it this way. I had never heard of Flitz, but I think I'll give it a try on one of the other blades I've got with too big a chunk missing to restore. If the etching survives on that blade I'll make a careful try on the Griffon.

A light sanding with micromesh, 2k or higher, (the paper, not the pads) and a hard backer, (wine cork or eraser, cut/molded to the blade shape. That will remove the tarnish and not remove much of the etch, you can also use 3 or, 1um lapping film.

Geezer has a good thread on saving etches, your etch, looks fairly deep, compared to some.

Revealing Etchings

Popsicle sticks also works for straightening scales, you can thin a wedge with a knife for a custom fit.