Thread: Pitting

Hi Guys,
I bought this 7/8ths W.Greaves & Sons on eBay as an xmas project for myself.

From the pictures it didn't seem to be in that bad of a condition. I've certainly restored worse.

Today I received my blade . I deconstructed it at went at it with 1000 grit paper and WD40 to check out its condition.

One side is ok but the other has some deep pits ,which I don't mind but the problem is some pits near the edge.

I'm thinking that trying to remove them would be a problem because of the final geometry after sanding and leaving them alone would be a no no because then the bevel /cutting edge just couldn't exist on deep pits.

Any thoughts? preferably positive ones haha.

I would take it to the stomes see if you can get a bevel on it. Before sanding any more.

May find that if they aren't 'too' deep you might get lucky 😂

Geek

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Originally Posted by TheGeek

I would take it to the stomes see if you can get a bevel on it. Before sanding any more.

May find that if they aren't 'too' deep you might get lucky 😂

Geek

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That is the best way to approach it. If the pits are too deep the edge will begin to 'swiss cheese'. To make it worthwhile to restore you have to get down to good steel in the bevel, even if that means losing width.

I will do that tomorrow, should work out , fingers crossed.

I wish I had a buffer though.. There is a lot of sanding ahead of me.

Not sure if it's something you already have, but I would suggest soaking it in Evaporust for whatever pitting will remain. It's real good at neutralizing rust.

When I work on a razor that will retain pitting when finished, I try to get into the pitting any way I can. Using a toothbrush & polish, wire bristled (detailing) brush, steel wool, etc., I try to loosen debris & clean inside the pitting. Then I give it an Evaporust bath, bristle brush it some more, followed by another Evaporust bath, then on to other cleanings/polishing. This usually happens after all the "heavy lifting" sanding, and before walking up through the high grit papers to polish.

Hopefully my words reached a value of at least $0.02 for you .

Pitting aside, that's a good looking blade!

Originally Posted by Crawler

Not sure if it's something you already have, but I would suggest soaking it in Evaporust for whatever pitting will remain. It's real good at neutralizing rust.

When I work on a razor that will retain pitting when finished, I try to get into the pitting any way I can. Using a toothbrush & polish, wire bristled (detailing) brush, steel wool, etc., I try to loosen debris & clean inside the pitting. Then I give it an Evaporust bath, bristle brush it some more, followed by another Evaporust bath, then on to other cleanings/polishing. This usually happens after all the "heavy lifting" sanding, and before walking up through the high grit papers to polish.

Hopefully my words reached a value of at least $0.02 for you .

Pitting aside, that's a good looking blade!

Thanks for that, I will hunt some down...
I've been planning my attack for this blade and getting the pitted area clean looking is a must, I have many options though..

There is also voice in the back of my head telling me to oil n wrap it and start on another blade.

This one is quite heavy and at the moment I'm being drawn to the smaller lighter blades ..
What a conundrum ey

Another thing to explore for cleaning out pits that will remain is a fiberglass pen. They are quite handy for that.

Bob

I just finished one just like that. Same shape blade and makers stamp. Great shave.

Thought I'd have a go at cleaning the pits out before I start sanding..

I used some rust removal gel, then compounds with the Dremel and different type wire heads.

finally a little metal polish.

It looks pretty bad . However because this one will be an ugly duckling I might use materials that I wouldn't normally use . Like honey horn..

I cant really make any decisions until I've spent some time sanding...

Thanks for documenting. Keep updating!