Thread: How wide the rear of a wedge should be?

Great read lads, not wanting to contradict anyone so far as all awesome advice by those with miles more experience than me.
But my wedges rule of thumbs have been as follows:
1: wedge thickness at top inside is to suit the depth of the blade to sit into the scales.
2: slight vertical tapper wider from top to thinner bottom to match the tang tapper
3: wedge angle for most razors has been so the scales when preassembled with the wedge in place there is approximately 3 to 5mm between the scales to tang each side at the pivot.
So a near wedge blade would have a flatter wedge than a full hollow blade sitting shallow in the scales,
but the width of the scales spread at the pivot would be the same if the tangs are same width
JMHO & YMMV

I've become slightly proficient at making wedges by hand . Yesterday I spent about 2 hours making a brass wedge.

I kinda just wing it and bodge it .
I use sand paper, masking tape and make it by sight , mock it up as I go , consider the bow effect..

You guys with machinery are blessed..

Funny story, once I sanded through the tops of my fingernails and finger tips

Originally Posted by Substance

Great read lads, not wanting to contradict anyone so far as all awesome advice by those with miles more experience than me.
But my wedges rule of thumbs have been as follows:
1: wedge thickness at top inside is to suit the depth of the blade to sit into the scales.
2: slight vertical tapper wider from top to thinner bottom to match the tang tapper
3: wedge angle for most razors has been so the scales when preassembled with the wedge in place there is approximately 3 to 5mm between the scales to tang each side at the pivot.
So a near wedge blade would have a flatter wedge than a full hollow blade sitting shallow in the scales,
but the width of the scales spread at the pivot would be the same if the tangs are same width
JMHO & YMMV

I will take this into concideration. I think i know what your saying and why. Sounds like a good option when dealing with full wedge blades.
Thanks for your input.

Thanks to everyone for the input. All options will be writen down. All the info ive gotten on this thread has been good to have and will help me make a proper rebiuld on any razor. I cant thank you all enough for the help. Now to make a file on my computer.

Why a wedge?
I wrote a quick 1 page essay a while ago on why I thought the old makers did not use wood for scale material. I have never posted it. This is one paragraph from that on my thoughts on why a wedge is used in scale assembly along with a tapered tang.
Take a look at how the scales were designed to work. Note there is a wedge made of various materials at one end of the scales and at the other the tapered tang of the razor. When the assembly is pinned together the scales bow in the center. They are wider in the center than at either end. With the blade properly tightened between the scales as you open the blade you will note the flexing of the scales much like a spring. In the closed position there is the least tension on the blade at the blade pivot point. When opened 90 degrees to the scales the pressure is increased (the common position when shaving) and when opened straight the most pressure is applied. The changes in pressure are by design. There is less tension at the pivot when the blade is closed and stored. Less likelihood the scale material will take a set and cause the blade to become loose at the pivot.

Food for thought. Thanks.

Something to consider - when I got a brass sheet to use with my wooden scales it was a bit thin. Enough that it should've been doubled up. Well, my plans for doubling up the brass went right to hell in a handbasket. If you can imagine trying to work with 2 thin pieces of brass sandwiched between red oak scales and held together by a single pin, you can probably understand why that failed.

So rather than turning the brass into a proper wedge shape, I thinned up the scales where the brass would normally thin out. Worked out fairly well if I do say so myself. There's probably some mechanical reason that shouldn't be done, but the scales seem to flex properly and they haven't cracked yet.

I think the one mistake was getting the pin for the tang too tight. I got a little happy with the pinning hammer, I advise caution there. A few teeny little taps can make a dramatic difference. Right now I'm hoping it loosens up naturally so I don't have to separate it and try again.

I thought about a few layers of brass for a wedge. Thanks for posting this. Ill be zure that if i do this to get a thick enough piece to not have to use more than one.

Wise decision. Here's how mine turned out:







Not too shabby for taking a first stab at it, but it would've been better with a proper wedge. One of these days it might get one.

All info copied to the computer. Thanks to all for the input. Most of this, even if posted by different folks still works out close to the same info except for a couple but it is still good to know and another option or two. Now to make a file with scales building posted a couple pages back. That was good stuff and I thank you again. Sorry I stold it but I guess that why folks post up is to share. And I got to make one of those wedge gizzies. Look a lot more easier to handle for sure!