Thread: Hand polishing compounds

Naval jelly is pretty tough (effective) stuff. Used in on mining equipment in limestone quarry environments in the past.

Nice thing about the evaporust stuff is it only attacks the rust, not the good steel. Added bonus is the darkening action really helps makers stamps and etching 'pop' assuming black is the colour you wanted it to be restored to.
Good luck.

Originally Posted by Euclid440

The trick to polishing, is sanding out all the deep scratches, use progressive finer grits, ending at least at 2k before moving to polishes.

Micro mesh sanding pads are worth the money, and last a long time. You can find fine Wet and Dry, sand papers at Wallmart, up to 4-5k in the Automotive department, some Ace hardware and at Automotive Paint supply stores, or on line.

Novus is a great polish designed for plastics, come in 3 grits and a small bottle set sells for about $12, great on headlights. Most good metal polishes will polish plastics, horn and bone.

I like Mothers, Mass and Flitz and lately been using the 3M marine metal polish recommended by Outback in the, What are you working on thread recently.

How'd you like the 3M marine metal restorer/polish so far.

Originally Posted by Clayglen

Thanks. I was hoping there was a product that might be a miracle for embedded tarnish, especially near etchings.
I've used navel jelly... naval jelly?... on car parts. I think the chemical was phosphoric acid. It turns rust black and hard and turns it into a paintable surface. On a razor, I'd think that would have to be sanded away.

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The 3M marine metal restorer/ polish is incredible for tarnish removal. Use by hand, or machine.
Here's 10 minutes of moderate pressure, by hand.

How'd you like the 3M marine metal restorer/polish so far.


It works, pricey, but cheaper than Maas and I think a bit better.

A tub, I think will last a long, long time, I’ve had a tub of Mothers for years and I use it all the time as my first polish.

This is just 000 steel wool and 3M.

It will get some hand sanding, 600-2k and more polish. I am making some Translucent Honey horn with brown streaks scales for it.

Originally Posted by MikeB52

Naval jelly is pretty tough (effective) stuff. Used in on mining equipment in limestone quarry environments in the past.

Nice thing about the evaporust stuff is it only attacks the rust, not the good steel. Added bonus is the darkening action really helps makers stamps and etching 'pop' assuming black is the colour you wanted it to be restored to.
Good luck.

Evaporust won't turn the steel around the etching dark if it's bright.
Here's one I'd like to touch up.


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Ok, ive got some clear liquid that is made for plastic headlamps so i guess this will work on plastics. And ive got neatsfoot oil so ill use it on horn. Proper sanding on all up to 2500 is what i do so thats covered. And for wood, car wax and or furniture polish. I think ive got all i need. Now just to have the time to put them together.

I've also got some Blue Magic that i use on metal. Works with some elbow grease. Thanks for all the great info guys.

Geezer is right, a little dawn dish soap I find works best with wet/dry. Warm water and a bit of the dawn works wonders and makes the paper last longer. The soap not only cleans the paper but acts as a slight lubricant.

No, it turns the entire blade dark, shiny or not. It just bites into the rust deeper.
That blades a candidate for q tips and maybe polishing compound, IMO. Etching is too easy to remove with anything really aggressive, including a lot of polishes. Might want to lay some tape across the etchings before doing anything to protect it.

Originally Posted by MikeB52

No, it turns the entire blade dark, shiny or not. It just bites into the rust deeper.
That blades a candidate for q tips and maybe polishing compound, IMO. Etching is too easy to remove with anything really aggressive, including a lot of polishes. Might want to lay some tape across the etchings before doing anything to protect it.

I'm happy with it as is. It's brighter than my dodgy pics show. I'd just like the etching to pop more. I may try bluing if I get the nerve.

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