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Thread: Make your own solid brass washers

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    Senior Member xiaotuzi's Avatar
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    Default Make your own solid brass washers

    I've been making my own solid brass domed washers for a while now. I got the idea from an older thread but have made a few adjustments that work well for me. That thread is http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...-vlad-how.html so while it's been discussed before, there has been some interest in this lately so I thought I'd renew the topic and share some of what I do for making these. I posted some of this in a different thread a few months ago but have made a few improvements since then.

    I cut some steel rod and drilled 1/16 inch holes in the center of a few pieces. On a couple I dished out the surface using larger drill bits and made two sizes for the domes. I cut pieces of seamless brass tubing (two sizes) and use a broke off piece of 1/16 drill bit as the post. Then I hammer the two pieces together and it squishes the tubing into the dome shape.
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    Then I flatten the bottom on 400 grit sandpaper and the bevel out the top a little to allow for the pin to set flush. I hold it with a small needle nose pliers and use a little bigger drill bit to do this. Doing this part on sandpaper helps the washer to not spin. Name:  IMG_9780.jpg
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    Now they are ready for sanding and polishing. I set out a progression of sandpaper bits 400 - 2000, some 3.5 diamond lapping paste, a small rag, a slim cone shaped diamond rotary bit for a mandrel, and safety glasses. I used to use a modified roofing nail as the mandrel but the diamond rotary bit is key, it holds the washer and doesn't let it spin, very useful for this next part. I put the washer on the mandrel in the dremel, get it spinning and use the sandpaper to smooth out the surface ending with the diamond polish.
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    Here's how they look on some razors I restored...
    small domes:
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    large domes:
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    Thanks for looking!
    "Go easy"

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    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    Very cool.

    Try a Flex shaft, $15, it will change your life…

    No really, gives you a lot more control. Make sure to get the right size for your collet, apparently, there are 2 sizes.
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    Senior Member blabbermouth ejmolitor37's Avatar
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    Fantastic work tuzi looks great!
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    I love Burls....... and Acrylic HARRYWALLY's Avatar
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    Amazing! Love the look of them.
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    Slick job sir!
    Look terrific.
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    Senior Member BeJay's Avatar
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    Those are outstanding Tuzi! Very well done.
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    B.J.

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    Fantastic, thanks for sharing!
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    Senior Member karlej's Avatar
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    How well do the solid collars conform to the curved surface of some scales? Particularly at the pivot end. I've tried some solid collars in the past and had a devil of a time with that. Hollow collars made from stamped sheets conform fine. Nice approach to making the dies.
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    Senior Member xiaotuzi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by karlej View Post
    How well do the solid collars conform to the curved surface of some scales? Particularly at the pivot end. I've tried some solid collars in the past and had a devil of a time with that. Hollow collars made from stamped sheets conform fine. Nice approach to making the dies.
    The small size ones work ok for that but the larger ones don't conform very well, I think you would have to hit them too hard. I have run them back and forth on a half round diamond needle file a few times and had good results with that to put the curve there to match scales. You're right, the pivot end is usually a more pronounced curve.
    "Go easy"

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    Senior Member blabbermouth Geezer's Avatar
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    Good information!
    Using similar tooling, I went with the idea of a flexible washer. I tried the solid ones I made but they always stood proud of a contoured scale unless sunk into the scale. I had use of a metal lathe so I made these parts. They slide together in a tube to assure alignment. I use punched out disks of brass or German Silver as a start.
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    I use a HF little punch set that makes small disks. I used a Bremel cutting wheel to grind the end of a hardened ΒΌ" Dowel pin to a centered 1/16th" pin and assured a square shoulder on the dowel, for the punching part... I drill a bunch of 1/16th holes in the shim stock and then use the pin on the dowel to align the punch. A whack with a hammer and I have a disk.
    Just a few other ways to accomplish and end.
    Have fun!
    ~Richard

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