Thread: Question: How to create tension on the pinning for the razor

Thanks Gentlemen.

Yes, I've already learned the lesson that light taps in the pinning process means light taps.

To add some stuff....... If your cutting a new pin the length is important.

If you just happily tap away you may chase the blade to one side or the other. Tight but hits 1 scale or the other. I would need pictures to explain that but a quick search will do it for you. Was always going to do a video on that but..........
The short answer is tap the front of the pin opposite the side the blade is hitting. The back of the pin on the same side.

If you have the pivot pin out the scales should separate at the pivot end therefore creating a spring action as you pull them together to pin them back. The wedge is what determines how far/much spring there is. How this works on the razor as a whole takes perpendicular bisectors, parallelograms, and primary indicators to explain. Wanna go there ? Come on over and bring your French curve. I will explain it :<0)

Or just take apart a bunch of razors 1 at a time and pay attention to what's going on. That's what I did. You do have RAD right ?

Because of this thread I just took a shave with a Dovo. This was the first time I had noticed the naii type of pin. And mine was a little loose. Glad I read that if tightening one of these you just end-up with a bent pin. I'm going to have to repin this one. I cant have a razor with this type of pin. Whats wrong with these guys!
@10Pups I'll be right there. Will a German Curve work?

Originally Posted by Gasman

Because of this thread I just took a shave with a Dovo. This was the first time I had noticed the naii type of pin. And mine was a little loose. Glad I read that if tightening one of these you just end-up with a bent pin. I'm going to have to repin this one. I cant have a razor with this type of pin. Whats wrong with these guys!
@10Pups I'll be right there. Will a German Curve work?

As with any mass produced product.
To increase productivity, you must first remove quality.

Just for clarification:

Almost all the Factory Produced SR's now use the one sided pins and have for decades..

They will not bend if you only tap on the peen side, if you try and peen the "front" side (the head of the Nail) it will bend..

OK, Thanks for the clarification Glen. Maybe I'll give it a go and try to tighten it up a bit. Still think I should repin. Don't have anything else to do as the radio conditions suck right now. Maybe in the morning. I had a couple beers.

Smash the hammer on your thumb.
If it bleeds then that was too hard..

I think that's what I was taught?

Originally Posted by 10Pups

To add some stuff....... If your cutting a new pin the length is important.

If you just happily tap away you may chase the blade to one side or the other. Tight but hits 1 scale or the other. I would need pictures to explain that but a quick search will do it for you. Was always going to do a video on that but..........
The short answer is tap the front of the pin opposite the side the blade is hitting. The back of the pin on the same side.

If you have the pivot pin out the scales should separate at the pivot end therefore creating a spring action as you pull them together to pin them back. The wedge is what determines how far/much spring there is. How this works on the razor as a whole takes perpendicular bisectors, parallelograms, and primary indicators to explain. Wanna go there ? Come on over and bring your French curve. I will explain it :<0)

Or just take apart a bunch of razors 1 at a time and pay attention to what's going on. That's what I did. You do have RAD right ?

If RAD has something to do with razor addiction, then yes, guilty as charged.