Thread: Removing a pin

I wanted to show you how I remove pins. I can do this in a couple of seconds if I don't have to narrate
I don't use flush cutters because they can more easily damage scales due to the downward pressure during the cut, and files would work as well but that would take a lot more time. And of course if the file slips, it will also scratch the scales.

Nice if not in a vintage situation..Saving collars and all.
Providing you have that badassed grinder!

Mostly I do as beginning here;

http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...ml#post1347714

I agree with you. While there is a lot if overlap, there are some fundamental differences between restoration and custom razor making.

Same with honing. I am really not a skilled honer. I can put great edges on my razors, but don't ask me to hone some warped vintage razor with bad wear because I won't even try

Guns and Roses �� Nice production touch.

As pointed out vintage restorations are a bit different. Hard rubber and celluloid do not like heat. Belt grinding the pin head would generate enough heat to melt the collar into the scale material. Modern materials like acrylic are similar.

Originally Posted by karlej

As pointed out vintage restorations are a bit different. Hard rubber and celluloid do not like heat. Belt grinding the pin head would generate enough heat to melt the collar into the scale material. Modern materials like acrylic are similar.

I think that depends on the belt. I use ceramic belts and I throw them away when they get dull. With fresh ceramic belts you don't get heat development. At least not in the amount of time needed to remove a brass pin head. I've tried this with a worn 240 belt as well and then you do get more heat.