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Thread: HUUUUUUGE Lesson Learned Fom First Restoration Attempt

  1. #21
    Senior Member gabrielcr78's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gssixgun View Post
    Gosh if only some really smart people would put all these Hints Tips and Ideas in one spot where people could find them before they wreck a vintage razor and possibly themselves **SMH**

    Big HUUUUUUuge thread in RED at the top of this very Sub-forum

    http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...wers-here.html

    Glad your Okay and no blood was spilled
    thanks for the reminder bro!
    gssixgun likes this.
    honing my mind...

  2. #22
    Member Skinflint's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gssixgun View Post
    Gosh if only some really smart people would put all these Hints Tips and Ideas in one spot where people could find them before they wreck a vintage razor and possibly themselves **SMH**

    Big HUUUUUUuge thread in RED at the top of this very Sub-forum

    http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...wers-here.html

    Glad your Okay and no blood was spilled
    Hmmmmmm.
    What a novel thought!
    I may just take some time over the weekend and actually read thru that thread!

    While I'm still in one piece.

    Thank you.
    gssixgun, MikeB52 and Marshal like this.

  3. #23
    Senior Member Pete123's Avatar
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    I'm embarrassed to say that I haven't viewed that thead - big red type and all!
    rolodave and Marshal like this.

  4. #24
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    been there done that. Learned my lesson the hard way too.

    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
    rolodave likes this.

  5. #25
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    I'm in the midst of my first restoration project. I had thought about going all out and getting the buffing set up, compounds, etc. BUT, I just opted for good ol' sandpaper, and I would tell anybody thinking about starting out it's quite impressive what you can accomplish with just some elbow grease as opposed to greaseless compounds (rather relaxing too!). If you do it right, by the time you hit 2000 to 2500 grit, the blade is shining like a mirror after some Mothers polish.

    I'm getting amped and prepared for scales next, and I think I might take a similar approach with minimal tools and patience.

    Glad OP wasn't hurt!
    rolodave, Marshal and Mrchick like this.

  6. #26
    Senior Member blabbermouth niftyshaving's Avatar
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    You are a lucky man ....
    Power tools and razors do not mix.
    Polish with walnut hulls in a tumbler.

    Count your fingers and other parts again...
    ScoutHikerDad and Pete123 like this.

  7. #27
    Senior Member blabbermouth ejmolitor37's Avatar
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    [emoji45] Glad you are ok. Blades come and go booger hooks, not so easily.
    I did that with a GD and glad it was with junk. I do it all by hand or with a small Dremel and so careful.
    ScoutHikerDad likes this.
    Nothing is fool proof, to a sufficiently talented fool...

  8. #28
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    Well the good news is that because of this accident you will become highly proficient in the use of a buffer in the future. Your brain will see to that. Thank GOD you are ok....phew!!

  9. #29
    Senior Member Whizbang's Avatar
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    Thank you for sharing your story. Fortunately you were not seriously injured. This is why I do my restorations without power tools. I sand, buff and polish my razors by hand. Nothing beats elbow grease and TLC.

  10. #30
    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    I'm sure that chip will hone right out!

    Quote Originally Posted by Whizbang View Post
    Thank you for sharing your story. Fortunately you were not seriously injured. This is why I do my restorations without power tools. I sand, buff and polish my razors by hand. Nothing beats elbow grease and TLC.
    I suppose there's some truth to this, you can start at 600-1K and get most of the old rust and black schmootz off with little time/effort. Digging out pitting might be more of a chore, but one has to weigh risk to reward. Even if the razor is in such bad condition you have to start at 120 grit paper, it's very low risk and the final product will be just as good. Just takes a bit more time. And that isn't necessarily a bad thing.

    I'm guilty of using a battery powered dremel for some of my faster clean ups. Works great because You can get %95 of the cleanup done in 15 minutes or less with a purple '300 grit' pad on low setting, then finish up with a cotton wheel and some CrOx. But as I found out with a full hollow blade, even when the pad is spinning the right way things can get out of control quick with a hand buffer. I was on the cotton buffing wheel and I guess I put too much pressure on it. The wheel caught the spine, walked up it and all the way around the blade, got hung up on the edge and snapped it in the blink of an eye. Fortunately I dull edges before resto work, and with the way the buffer was spinning it flung the chip away from me. Also lucky that it was just a beat up hardware store razor that had already had the toe amputated, so it wasn't a big loss. Just frustrating and a little scary.

    Direction is important, so is pressure. As with all things razor related, less is more.
    ScoutHikerDad and JOB15 like this.

  11. The Following User Says Thank You to Marshal For This Useful Post:

    ScoutHikerDad (06-12-2017)

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