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Thread: Newbie here, questions! :)
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06-25-2017, 01:02 PM #11
- Join Date
- Jun 2017
- Location
- Brazil
- Posts
- 25
Thanked: 1
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06-25-2017, 01:03 PM #12
- Join Date
- Jun 2017
- Location
- Brazil
- Posts
- 25
Thanked: 1Newbie here, questions! 😊
Yeah no kidding I saw this other post earlier today... that was also an eye opener on my lack of safety equipment.
Last edited by ppucci; 06-25-2017 at 02:43 PM.
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06-25-2017, 03:14 PM #13
- Join Date
- Feb 2013
- Location
- Haida Gwaii, British Columbia, Canada
- Posts
- 14,444
Thanked: 4828I have a Dremel that sees some use. One of the things that I find important is the use of a foot pedal to control the speed. The other must have item from my perspective is a means to secure the blade. You can build a magnetic holder, or use a vice or engravers block. They all work great for helping keep your fingers safe while working a blade. I find for polishing it is more difficult to get a nice even finish with a Dremel than with a buffer, but buffers can also be dangerous and have their own set of safety issues. Hand sanding is still how I do almost all of the heavy lifting.
It's not what you know, it's who you take fishing!
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06-25-2017, 03:17 PM #14
- Join Date
- Jun 2017
- Location
- Brazil
- Posts
- 25
Thanked: 1Appreciate all the comments so far. Really making me think about starting manually, and maybe someday move to the dremel. Might even look for a buffer. But first, need to go after tools and safety items. Thank you all, keep 'em coming.
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06-25-2017, 05:07 PM #15
Here are a few more reasons to start by hand rather than dremel.
Straight razors are very fragile, especially as you closer to the cutting edge. They are very thin at the cutting edge. Using a dremel, or anything with a motor, can ruin the blade quickly, better to get the basics down first.
It's bee said, though I'll reiterate. a dull straight razor is still very sharp. The Dremel can throw it with plenty of velocity to hurt you or someone else.
I've cracked and ruined a nice Solingen razor with a dremel.
Also, I don't believe in taking a vintage blade and making it look brand new. Doing that erases all of the history. I want to remove and arrest and rust / pitting and clean it up, but that is all.
I believe the best way to remove rust with with a piece of pure copper. Copper is harder than rust and softer than steel.
I found that I enjoy making scales more than restoring vintage razors.
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06-25-2017, 05:20 PM #16
Too much to list, but mainly three wheels.
Stitched for greaseless and greased compounds.
Wool for a aggressive polish or tight work with greaseless.
Rag for final polish and polishing scales.
For plastic scales with light scratches, I use a leather wheel and a plastic scratch removing compound, followed with a rag wheel and Flitz or Maas for the final polish.
Always watch wheel rotation to the blade " ALWAYS" !! away from the edge, and put carpet or rugs on the floor to catch errand drops n such.
Broke my first one that way, knocked the blade off the table, hit the floor..Boom, gone, the blade basically exploded, taking half the width of the blade.
So here's a pic to look through of the dremmel things, and "some" of the other stuff I use.
Mike
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