Thread: Ziricote scale finish

I too like your idea about using Tru-oil outback. Then a light coat of Renaissance Wax.


Mike

I did put some ca on a cut-off to see how it looked. Just waiting for it to dry to take a look. I'll do a test piece with the tru oil also when get a chance to pick some up.

So far this is what I have gotten done. Temped them together with micro fasteners to sand both sides to match. Then started with 100 grit sand paper to get the curvature of them to feel comfortable in the hand. Then progression sanded with 180/250/400/600/800/1500/2000 w/d sandpaper.

With the 2000 they almost shine on their own. Still have to make the tang covers, but that's a little more tedious project. So that will wait till another day.

Originally Posted by mglindo

I too like your idea about using Tru-oil outback. Then a light coat of Renaissance Wax.


Mike

I hear its good stuff, even for blades.
But I've never tried it. Mom used jubilee on her hardwood floors, for years.
I love the smell, and reminds me of when I was a wee one, and my older brother pushing me through the house, while I sat on the floor in my jammies.
As slick as snot, on a glass door knob.[emoji1]

Zircote is a Rosewood

In general "Tighter grain and oily woods use a thinner finish"

Polys work well with this especially if you do a few Thinned wash coats to start.

Teak or Danish oils are simple to use for these types of wood too


Two recommendations

Use Acetone to wipe down the wood first before applying any finish and let dry

Know what is meant by a "Wash Coat" and use them even with CA they work well

Glen for thinning the poly you do mean using a little paint thinner just to thin it down to use less for each coat, right. I did trim carpentry for quite a while but the finishing on all my woodwork was done by someone who did only that, so I don't have much experience in finishing wood. For my own kitchen I did all pre-finished cabinets and stacked crown.

Originally Posted by Paul76

Glen for thinning the poly you do mean using a little paint thinner just to thin it down to use less for each coat, right..

Yes exactly

I use Mineral Spirits, the first wash coat is usually 50/50 the second is usually only 30% spirits or close

For CA I use the really thin stuff for the first 3 coats sanding lightly in between, then go for effect

Thanks Glen, just wanted to be sure on that. Before having one of those ooops moments!

Originally Posted by Paul76

I did put some ca on a cut-off to see how it looked. Just waiting for it to dry to take a look. I'll do a test piece with the tru oil also when get a chance to pick some up.

So far this is what I have gotten done. Temped them together with micro fasteners to sand both sides to match. Then started with 100 grit sand paper to get the curvature of them to feel comfortable in the hand. Then progression sanded with 180/250/400/600/800/1500/2000 w/d sandpaper.

With the 2000 they almost shine on their own. Still have to make the tang covers, but that's a little more tedious project. So that will wait till another day.

Did you sand your test pieces to 2000.?
It'll be more accurate that way...
And TrueOil will be a minimum of six coats, or what ever it takes to fill the grain, plus three coats more, for sanding and polishing, so it comes out shiny and smooth.

I didn't go that far, but I did go to 800 for the ca and planned on doing the same for the tru oil. I was figuring whichever looked better at that point would also look better at the 2000 sanding level.

Today I decided to work on the tang covers. And wow are they tedious and feel like one wrong look and they might break. I do know that I will be using ca on the pin holes for these tang covers, just to help prevent splitting. As for the rest of the finish I still need some comparison. The only parts of the finishing steps that I have decided on is nickel silver hardware and wedge. I think that will complete the look that I want.