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Thread: Tightening Pin on Ivory Scaled Razor

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    Default Tightening Pin on Ivory Scaled Razor

    I recently picked up an ivory scaled Heljestrand razor. The pivot pin is a bit looser than I would like, but the pins aren't like any I've seen before. They are very small with no visible washer. The scales are also very thin.

    What is the best way, if there is one, to go about tightening the pin?

    Thanks in advance!
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    Senior Member blabbermouth outback's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matt1222 View Post
    I recently picked up an ivory scaled Heljestrand razor. The pivot pin is a bit looser than I would like, but the pins aren't like any I've seen before. They are very small with no visible washer. The scales are also very thin.

    What is the best way, if there is one, to go about tightening the pin?

    Thanks in advance!
    O so very carefully tap around the outer edge of the pin, without striking the scales. Go light with the hammer
    Most all Ivory is pinned collarless.
    Here's a set I recently pinned.
    Mike

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    Ivory is very dense bone like material...it is usualy very resistant and flexible even in thin scales...but...it all depends on the condition the ivory is in.

    If it has cracks around the pin tightening it with a ball point hammer must be done with great care. I recomend openi g the razor so that the thicker part of the wedge shaped tang can support the end of the scales in case of wnwanted pressure on the end of the scales or a missed hammer blow....

    If the scales have an even colour all the way with no cracks arround the pin or chips that may promote a crack you can proceed with light ball poi t hammer taps in a circular motion on the pivot pin...take your time and do this with the blade opened.

    Ivory is usualy non porous so that means oil does not get in it to stain it...but suprisingly warm water tends to rehidrate the colagen in the bone matrix...making it a bit more flexible...this may help before pining
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    Razor Vulture sharptonn's Avatar
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    Really should be drilled-out and begun again, JMO.
    Less chance of breaking something.
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    Senior Member blabbermouth outback's Avatar
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    I used mineral oil on mine.
    It will penetrate, and give some life to dry ivory.
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    Mike

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    Quote Originally Posted by sharptonn View Post
    Really should be drilled-out and begun again, JMO.
    Less chance of breaking something.
    If the skill set is there, yes.
    Best to make sure there's no crud in between the blade and scales, first. [emoji6]
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    Mike

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    Razor Vulture sharptonn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by outback View Post
    If the skill set is there, yes.
    Best to make sure there's no crud in between the blade and scales, first. [emoji6]
    But if you remove the crud, it will NEVER tighten-up!
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    Senior Member blabbermouth outback's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sharptonn View Post
    But if you remove the crud, it will NEVER tighten-up!
    [emoji38] [emoji38] [emoji38]
    Mike

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    I'm sort of in with the others, if you can repin it, sure, if you cannot and the dome is above the ivory, moisturizer then tighten them.they may swell up a tad and be happy with just a good slathering of light mineral oil.
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    Razor Vulture sharptonn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by outback View Post
    I used mineral oil on mine.
    It will penetrate, and give some life to dry ivory.
    Here is a question. Previous comments aside, I know petroleum based stuff will soak into ivory and is in there hard. Discolors the ivory. Can you do too much mineral oil?
    Also, do you think as the ivory is rehydrated with mineral oil, does it swell any?

    I have this strange ivory issue.

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