Thread: how do you guys restore?

I am lazy when it comes to restores. I use only mothers metal polish if I can, but if not I use dremel. Dremel I have this buffing paste that gives decent satin finish. I keep it on low though and hold blade with hand so I know it is not getting to hot. Did some hand sanding before but I don't think it is worth time unless it is very nice razor, then it might just be worth sending it off. Scales I will only touch with mothers or 1k sand paper

Also I am restore newb

I usually restore with a lot of patience.

I don't have that many tools and I mostly limit myself to cleaning the razor and it's scales, in between the pins and washers, get the rust out, and oil it.
If the blade itself is not that bad, I leave it as is.
I usually adjust the pinning to make the blade a little tighter and perfectly centered. Can't stand loose sitting blades, especially when stropping.
And then I just hone 'em up.

I'm not the guy to get a mirror finish on my blades, I usually like them with a bit of character, unless if it's real rust or serious pitting, that I gotta remove, otherwise I leave it

Sometimes I take a piece of the heel / stabilizer off if necessary and hone out chips (the bigger ones are a PITA and take plenty of time since I don't have very low grit stones)

Not to hijack the thread, but does anyone has a good source to buy scales from, preferably in the European area? Pre-drilled would be awesome, without a drill press, I find it sometimes a little tedious and erroneous to do it by hand myself, I'm not that good at working "straight" I've noticed.

Scales are easily wet sanded, 1 or 2k wet/dry sand paper no need to bear down. Make sure you have a nice even dull look to them then Mothers or like product on a microfiber towel and buff. Go to a clean part of the towel and repeat until you have a shinny piece of plastic. Dremels are handy but more stuff gets destroyed than gets done. These blades are so thin it doesn't take much stress to break one. I just did a razor from break down to sanding to polish and fixing warped scales and honing I bet there is 3 hours in it. Is it perfect? No, there was pits from water spots. Does it look 1 hell of a lot better? Yes and all of it was done by hand.

Originally Posted by ejmolitor37

Scales are easily wet sanded, 1 or 2k wet/dry sand paper no need to bear down. Make sure you have a nice even dull look to them then Mothers or like product on a microfiber towel and buff. Go to a clean part of the towel and repeat until you have a shinny piece of plastic. Dremels are handy but more stuff gets destroyed than gets done. These blades are so thin it doesn't take much stress to break one. I just did a razor from break down to sanding to polish and fixing warped scales and honing I bet there is 3 hours in it. Is it perfect? No, there was pits from water spots. Does it look 1 hell of a lot better? Yes and all of it was done by hand.

Too go from unpinning to finished takes me 5 or 6 hours. And thats not removing pitting. Just knocking them down a bit and trying to get the staining off. Honing take about a third of the time for me as I'm slow. Wet sand the scales to clean and then polish them. Sand blade by hand with 400 to 600 to see whats what. Then maybe to the buffer for a bit to get a good start on the sanding. Then back to hand sanding and polish. Pinning takes 20 to 30 minutes for me too. As I'm trying to do the best I can and it just takes time.

Its a slow process. If major work is needed like new scales, that alone will take me 4 hours. And that not talking a CA finish. Just cutting shaping and sanding then polish.

I was pretty fortunate last night Jerry the blade didn't need much. Sanded with 2k then 3k the polished with mothers. Same for scales after fixing warps. No blade corrections which was nice and bevel took quick and easy. Have not had one like that in awhile

I used to want to do full restoration with custom scales, but without a decent place to work that is a huge pain. Now I just try to clean the up a bit and polish them as needed. After cracking some nice scales and destroying some decorative washers trying to take them apart I'm not in as big a hurry to do that stuff now.
Also, I'm trying to buy razors that don't need a ton of work!

I get lucky like that now and then. Not often as i buy at a low cost. Although that might not have nothing to do with it. I try and save everything i can but sometimes it just dont work out well. Think i got 3 hrs in the one im working on now. Still needs pinning and honing.

Originally Posted by Phrank

I've spent years learning to restore my razors, to deciding the shape of the scales, the material to be used, and finally, what type of polish I'd like on the blade - all key factors in determining the, "planning phase", before one gets ready for the hard part of the actual work.

And that is this, getting the razor packaged up correctly - this is key.

Ensuring that the person who is going to restore your razor, has in fact agreed to do it, and given you the proper address.

Next, a difficult and key part - getting it to the post office, and properly sent off with tracking.

And finally, awaiting it's arrival at it's destination and the, what I call, "the confirmation notice" - this phase can now be properly concluded.

Then, one simply waits for an email from "The Restorer", and a couple of days later, a spankingly awesome, wonderfully restored razor just shows up in your mailbox.

It's like ferkin' magic....but takes time to learn correctly.

Hope this helps, and I'm just passing on the great knowledge and skill that was given freely to me when I joined....good luck....

Abridged version
Step 1: Call gssixgun (or other trusted SR restorer)

I've spent days n weeks, restoring some razors. It depends on the razors condition, and how much metal can be removed without compromising the blades integrity.

Patience is a virtue....good things come to those who wait.
Something I've lived by my whole life.
Some days your the bug...other days your the windshield.

There's quite a few weeks put into this one.


All work by hand, but I used the dremmel to do the final finish on the blade.

Originally Posted by outback

I've spent days n weeks, restoring some razors. It depends on the razors condition, and how much metal can be removed without compromising the blades integrity.

Patience is a virtue....good things come to those who wait.
Something I've lived by my whole life.
Some days your the bug...other days your the windshield.

There's quite a few weeks put into this one.
All work by hand, but I used the dremmel to do the final finish on the blade.

Turned out quite well. Beautiful razor.