Thread: Bondic Plastic Welder

It's been an extremely long time since I have been able to work on any of my razors and I am starting to get back to working on them. Have them just sitting there is an eyesore. I noticed Bondic Plastic Welder at the store and was wondering if anyone has tried this out yet. Wondering how it would work on celluloid, bakelite or other plastic type scales and if it would be strong enough for cracked or broken pivot areas.

Originally Posted by JSmith1983

It's been an extremely long time since I have been able to work on any of my razors and I am starting to get back to working on them. Have them just sitting there is an eyesore. I noticed Bondic Plastic Welder at the store and was wondering if anyone has tried this out yet. Wondering how it would work on celluloid, bakelite or other plastic type scales and if it would be strong enough for cracked or broken pivot areas.

Your post is a little vague but if you are referring to fixing broken scales, you might want to look here. This trick 'might' work for your projects.

http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...ht-razors.html

He is asking for first hand experience stories using a specific product, of which he named in the title of this thread. It is one of those glues that cures quickly under UV light, and comes with a little pen light for curing.

I have not used it, but suspect it may not be ideal for scales. I imagine it would not tolerate flexing very well (a brittle substance when cured?).

I found an article that helped narrow the field for a way to bond plastic, a while back...
Stick to it! A Guide to the Best Glue for Plastic - Craftech Industries

In my limited use of it, I have had good results with J.B. Plastic Weld. I even used it to splice a repair to a fuel line on the '96 Park Avenue I used to have. After the OEM replacement part ruptured in less than a year of being put on, I used an appropriate sized fuel hose to encase the hard plastic fuel line that cost way more than it needed to. I put a light layer of J.B. Plastic Weld on the inside of the hose. So it easily withstood exposure to gasoline, extreme heat & cold, and did not leak once the rest if the time I had that car (when the brake lines rusted out, and the frame was next)!

I hope this helps!

I understand the question, but I have never used the Bondic repair system. I have seen them advertised and on the display in the hardware store. I am curious also.

It's not useful.

I tried it on horn and vulcanite, it didn't bond well to either.

It's not brittle, it's actually pretty flexible, but it's also not very durable.

Originally Posted by Voidmonster

It's not useful.

I tried it on horn and vulcanite, it didn't bond well to either.

It's not brittle, it's actually pretty flexible, but it's also not very durable.

In the article I posted, they even used Teflon as one of the materials to be bonded. That is the only one that the J.B. stuff had a problem with lol!

Mind, the Bondic stuff HAS been useful for things like the fraying power cord on my laptop.

For scales, I'm gonna stick (hah hah) to cyanoacrylate for most things, and just never attempting to glue vulcanite (though I really should try some rubber cement at some point, but knowing how it works I'm concerned that it would slightly change the shape of the scales).

Everything I've seen about it made it seem rather flexible that is why I was wondering how it would work for scales. Good to know about horn and vulcanite. Maybe acrylic or celluloid it would work with, but if it isn't durable then there really isn't much point. I might have to pick some up since I'm sure I have some broken scales lying around that I can experiment with. If it doesn't work on scales I'm sure I can use it for something eventually.