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Thread: Steel Wool Question

  1. #1
    Skeptical Member Gasman's Avatar
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    Default Steel Wool Question

    Is there better name brands or is steel wool, steel wool?
    If I buy my steel wool from Walmart or if I buy it from a hardware store am I getting a better or lesser quality?
    I find that I get lots of tiny pieces of the wool in or on my projects from breakage of the wool when using it. If I buy from a better location than a place that sells China stuff, will it be a better quality and not fall apart as fast?
    Do you feel that synthetic steel wool is as good as steel, steel wool?

    Just doing some homework and trying to learn if one is better than the other.

    Thanks
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  2. #2
    Senior Member blabbermouth RezDog's Avatar
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    Default

    I can tell you that
    T eventually all steel wool will break down and start dropping fibres, and that goes for the synthetic stuff too. It takes longer with the sunthetic stuff. The stuff I get is made in the USA for both the regular and synthetic, and I think 3m has very good saynthetic. If the dropping fibres is important to a project I will Todd my piece out and grab a fresh one as soon as it starts dropping them. The bits from real steel wool will mess up water born finishes with brown rust spots. Other than that which to use is preference.
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    I used steel wool for finishing projects many years ago because that was the only thing available that was fine enough for final finishing, scuffing between coats of varnish, etc. Now you can purchase synthetic steel wool and you can also purchase wet/dry sand paper and , sponges up to 2000-2500 grit and you can get finishing pads at 3000 and 5000 grit.

    Your local auto parts store may be a good source of the finer grades of abrasives. Auto painters and detailers use these products for high gloss auto finishes. Depending on your needs, you get the product and grade that works.

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  6. #4
    Skeptical Member Gasman's Avatar
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    Default

    So, I guess Steel Wool is Steel Wool.
    Trying to locate a better quality brand is not worth the effort.
    I do have some synthetic and I use it more than the real stuff as it's not as messy but as Shaun was saying, it also breaks down but not as much.

    Thanks for the comments on such a simple thing. You just don't know unless you ask.
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    Default

    Just an added comment, Micromesh has sanding cloths and sponges to 12000 grit for finishing work.

    Steel wool is, in my opinion, better for uneven surfaces, and get into the tiny crevices The other products as above tend to remove the high spots.

    Mylar backed abrasives can be of service because they do not allow themselves to enter the low depressions and so, are best for polishing above etching or stamps. Hobby shops have them and they are available online.

    A good comparison grit chart is here:
    https://www.fine-tools.com/G10019.html

    JMO
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  9. #6
    Skeptical Member Gasman's Avatar
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    Thanks for the link Richard. I keep thinking about the Micro Mesh. I hear it lasts a lot longer than sand paper.
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  10. #7
    Senior Member blabbermouth bluesman7's Avatar
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    I've always though that the breaking down of steel wool was a good thing. Sand paper gets dull, steel wool goes away.
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    Senior Member blabbermouth Geezer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bluesman7 View Post
    I've always though that the breaking down of steel wool was a good thing. Sand paper gets dull, steel wool goes away.
    Interesting idea. thanks!
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  12. #9
    Senior Member celticcrusader's Avatar
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    Yeah, I'll second Richards findings, for abrasive quality and value for money Micromesh is great stuff very hard to beat.
    “Wherever you’re going never take an idiot with you, you can always find one when you get there.”

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