Thread: Gap between wedge and scales -- help!

Hi Folks,

I've been working on a set of scales made of cocobolo with a CA finish and a wedge made of nickel. The problem is that when I mock them up there is a slight gap between the edges of the wedge of the scales. I'm completely certain that both sides of the wedge are totally flat (I leveled it out using my DMT) so the problem must lie in the scales. Does anyone have any tips for getting the fit nice and tight? My initial though was to simply mark off where the wedge ends and the sand or file the inside of the scales again but I didn't want to get carried away if I'm just missing something simple here.

In a related problem, the scales had matches the wedge perfectly before the CA finish. I'm surprised at how much they actually grew. Are people adding the finish after the wedge is set in, or how does one get the wedge to match so perfectly?

Any tips or insights would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

You coated the inside of the scales, but never sanded them flat, afterwards. And you made your wedge to fit before your finish.....right.!?

I like one or two thin coats of CA inside the scales, just to seal the wood, then sand them flat again, that's all.

As for the wedge. Make it to fit, but leave a little sticking out around the edges of the scales. With everything in mock up screws, and the scales totally finished, use a file to complete the shape of the wedge.

If you go through your finish, it can easily be touched up after the mock up pins are removed.

Now you can assemble the razor.!

Tadaa..!!

Yep. Mike hit it perfectly.
Sand the finish off of the inside of those scales where the wedge sits. That will make things sit better. Then you might need to reshape the wedge-edge of your scales a touch to make it all line up perfectly. Then coat with CA to finish it. If you get everything perfectly lined-up and sitting flat 100% then when they are pinned, an extra coat of CA will make it look good. If there's a gap left and it gets filled with CA, it will look just like you have now. So make sure it's all flat together before that last thin coat.

Remember, as Mike said, that CA on the inside soaks into the wood. So if you sand it all flat after those inside coats dry, the CA is still IN the wood. You don't need to see a gloss on the insides.

At least this is how I deal with it. Have fun. You're almost there. And nice attention to detail!

Another thing that I try to do when fitting wedges is to scrape a slight hollow in the scales or wedge almost to the outside edge of the finished piece. That allows a pin to assure the edges are tightened and no gap.
How much to hollow? The thickness of a tissue or less.
YMMV
~Richard

I had a similar issue with a CA finish a few years ago. I should have just used enough to seal the wood as Mike mentioned.
Make sure you aren't pressing too hard in the scales when you are sanding them or you can flex the scale and make the gap worse. Ask me how I know!

And post a pic of your finished work! It looks like it is coming along great. My early rescale attempts were not very productive. I just ordered a set of those fasteners myself.

Really great response everyone, thank you! I'll sand the back of the scales flat and then take Mike's advice to file the wedge down afterwards. I feel like I'll probably have to redo the wedge entirely but that's ok, no rush here. I also really like Richard's suggestion of sort of setting the wedge in to the scale and will try that first too before redoing everything. I'll definitely post some pictures when I finally manage to get this all sorted.

Again, thanks for sharing your knowledge so openly and freely.

Kind regards,
Paul

I normally don't glue wedges to scales unless I am doing a CA finish-I haven't found a way to get a nice tight fit any other way

On a lead wedge, I often make them a little large and wait until I have pinned the top.
Scales such as wood don't want to bend, so as pinning the top, the gap will appear.
Tap the lead in lightly all the way around and then smooth it.

After a lot of trouble, I finally am able to get a great fit with wedges. Here are my thoughts based on what you have shared.

1. Nickel is far to hard to get a good fit. Lead works well as it is really soft. My preferred material is horn as it is flexible and is cooperative with a tight fit. The problem with a harder metal like nickel is there is no flex.

2. It looks like you may have rounded the ends of the scale when you sanded them, which is really easy to do. my secret for flatness is using a file or plate glass with sand paper on top of it. A tight fit is a function of the flatness of the scales and the flatness of the wedge.

3. I haven't looked at it lately, though I think one of the really popular articles in the library says to make the wedge 1/2 inch long and pin it at 7/16. I've measured a bunch of modern Dovo scales. They pin about halfway between 1/4 and 5/32. I've moved to doing it this way. It helps close the gap and I've had no problems with cracking or breakage.

4. I have finish on my wooden scale surfaces on either side of the wedge. I try to get the scales flat on plate glass before applying my preferred finish, which is Tru-Oil. If I miss that, I'll get them flat on plate glass and put two thin coats of CA. If needed, I could smooth the dried finish with fine sand paper, though when using a flexible material like horn, it hasn't been an issue.

5. You didn't mention using CA to force the gap closed. I'm not a fan of this as it interferes with the small amount of flexibilty which I believe to be important for scales to have a long life.

You are doing great. Don't get frustrated as making scales fit properly is harder than it would seem.

I'm guessing the the primary challenge you are facing is the hardness of the nickel.