Thread: Restoring a razor for a SRP Yahoo member

Recently I restored a razor for a member of the SRP Yahoo group by the name of Steven Kuprel.
He had a Dovo razor that he bought from Classic Shaving which had white
plastic handles on it. He wanted Bloodwood handles in place of the
white plastic. I formed the handles from Bloodwood and finished them
in polished CA (cyanoacrylate "superglue"). The pins, bullseye collars
and wedge are brass. To add some more class to the razor I added a
dark purple bead separating the handles where the third pin is
located.

Awesome Bill!!!! Very nice work.

Lynn

How do you do a superglue finish?

Originally Posted by Kyle76

How do you do a superglue finish?

Kyle (well you asked).........First of all I sand the wood using smaller grits of sandpaper until I finish with 2000 grit. I then glue a piece of wood on the back side of each scale and then stick this into a piece of styrafoam just for something to hold the scale. I then cut the finger from a surgical glove and put it over my forefinger. I then run a small line of thick superglue from near one end to the other on the scale. I then take my forefinger with the rubber on it and smear the superglue on the scale smoothing it as I do so. I do this to the other scale. I let it set up which takes a few hours. I put on another coat just as I did the first. After this sets up I start sanding with wet 320 grit wet/dry sandpaper until all of the small wrinkles are sanded out. I sometimes will add another coat. I then use wet wet/dry 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1500 and 2000 grit sandpaper. After this I will polish the superglue with Mothers Mag and Aluminum polish and it shines like you won't believe.

Several people use the thin superglue which works as well. It does set up quicker but seems to leave larger wrinkles plus you have to put on more coats. The thick superglue takes longer to set up which I like because you can really smooth out the glue while it is still wet. One coat of thick seems to equal about two or three coats of the thin. Another thing you might be cautioned about is using the superglue accelerator. It sets up the superglue in a heart beat but there are side affects that are not good. First of all it sets up the glue so fast that it turns it white and creates very large wrinkles. I have read that if you wait ten minutes or so and then apply the accelerator that it will not leave these after affects. I think that this is somewhat true with the thin superglue but not with the thick so that is why I let the thick superglue set up on its own. Oh! I also put a couple of coats on the underside of the scales after trimming off the piece of wood that held them to the styrafoam.

There are other finishes out there that are probably just as good and with considerably less work but the superglue is really strong and hold ups to water very well. And there may be other comments on how to do what I do better which I will try and learn from them..............

Great to see great work!!

C utz

Hello Bill,

good work - I like it.

But one question about the CA. I like the shine of CA, but I have a big problem, that with CA the haptical feeling of the wood is only like plastic. For this reason I dont want do use it again.

Shellack is also very beatifull, but not very resistend against water. So I will not use this once more.

I fact im actually searching a shining finish for the wood, thats preserve the haptic of the wood. Any ideas?

Buddel

Nice work!

BTW, are there two different SRP's? One on Yahoo and this one?

Being the owner of this piece of art, I am very pleased with the work and detail. One of my fav shavers now.

Once again very nice job, Bill. Great guy to work with!

Steve K

I'm not Bill, but I've used Tru Oil (gunstock finish) on blood wood and it came out great! AND still has a 'wood' feel.... VERY easy to use too.

http://straightrazorpalace.com/attac...8&d=1165027124

The scanned images make them look more dull than they really are.

C utz

Originally Posted by Buddel

Hello Bill,

good work - I like it.

But one question about the CA. I like the shine of CA, but I have a big problem, that with CA the haptical feeling of the wood is only like plastic. For this reason I dont want do use it again.

Shellack is also very beatifull, but not very resistend against water. So I will not use this once more.

I fact im actually searching a shining finish for the wood, thats preserve the haptic of the wood. Any ideas?

Buddel

Thx C utz,

for tropical hardwood is oil a good thing. Normaly I use linseedoil. But I searching something for softer woods like Walnut or Myrtle. I think oil is in this cases not hard enough?