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Thread: Restoring a PUMA
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05-24-2018, 04:36 PM #1
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Thanked: 552Less than 36 hours in a Ziplock and the black stuff has reappeared. Sure looks like celluloid rot. Thank you to Cudarunner and others for the warning and the diagnostic suggestion.
What a shame, the scales look pretty good. They aren’t brittle at all and are fairly thick. However, as Onimaru said, I would not want to waste a PUMA blade, so I will replace them. I haven’t read anywhere that it is possible to stabilize them so they don’t continue off-gassing.
The blade is currently 11/16 inch from bevel to top of spine and I figure removing the chip will take it down to 10/16. Still respectable and should preserve the etching.
I’d really like to preserve the PUMA badge on the scales. I think I read that using acetone to dissolve the existing scale might be the safest strategy, but I’m not sure. Any tried and proven techniques would be welcome.
I think I can use a CA to attach the emblem to a replacement scale. Is there a way to imbed it it the receiving scale so that it doesn’t just sit on the surface? I was thinking of using a plastic replacement scale and heating it to set the emblem, but that sounds ifffy and chintzy given the blade. With patience and a steady hand, I suppose I could try to carve a shallow receiving spot on the new scales, but that would really tax my current skill level.
What other material would you suggest I use for the replacement scales that could accept the badge?
The existing scales are 1/8 inch thick and have a 1/16 indentation on each side to accommodate the rubber piece on the tang. I’m pretty sure I can use my Dremel to rout out a similar feature on the new scales.
This has turned out to be a lot more work and amuch greater challenge than just polishing a tarnished blade. It will certainly be a learning experience. Pretty excited, actually
Don’t be surprised if I continue to seek advice as I try to bring this find back to good condition.David
“Shared sorrow is lessened, shared joy is increased”
― Spider Robinson, Callahan's Crosstime Saloon
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05-24-2018, 04:43 PM #2
I think you'll find Glen's (GSSIXGUN) video here very informative and helpful. I believe it's what you're looking for to be able to transfer that 'crest':
Our house is as Neil left it- an Aladdin’s cave of 'stuff'.
Kim X
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to cudarunner For This Useful Post:
DZEC (05-24-2018), Montgomery (07-25-2019)
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05-24-2018, 04:56 PM #3
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Thanked: 552I found this thread about using heat on plastic to place the inlay.
https://straightrazorpalace.com/work...c-plastic.html
Seems worth a try.David
“Shared sorrow is lessened, shared joy is increased”
― Spider Robinson, Callahan's Crosstime Saloon
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05-24-2018, 05:08 PM #4
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Thanked: 552Gssixgun to the rescue again.
Transferring inlays to new scales. I believe Glen glues these to the surface and if that’s OK for him, it is more than fine for me.
https://wetshaversworkshop.com/index...253/#post-2343
Rezdog also has a strategy.
inlay transfer method | TheShaveDenLast edited by DZEC; 05-24-2018 at 05:10 PM.
David
“Shared sorrow is lessened, shared joy is increased”
― Spider Robinson, Callahan's Crosstime Saloon
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05-25-2018, 12:15 AM #5
An alternative to acetone is boiling water . I never seem to have acetone around when I need it .
Pretty sure the inlay would have been dropped on to the scales after heating it. How hot I dunno. Glue is safer.“The white gleam of swords, not the black ink of books, clears doubts and uncertainties and bleak outlooks.”
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05-25-2018, 09:47 PM #6
Boiling water worked for me a couple times though unintentionally. Tried to straighten some scales and it shrunk the scales enough that the bolsters and inlays just popped off. Happened to two S.R. Droescher razors. Acetone worked when I wanted to do it intentionally. Haven't really messed around with the heat in awhile. I wanted to try and heat up a metal plate on top of the inlay and see if that would help keep the plastic flush around the inlay. I messed around with using a dremel to carve out the inlay and then heating which worked out better to keep it flush, but my carving was off in spots and looked horrible. If only I had the skills of Mycarver. I'm still sitting on a Puma that needs a new tang grip and scales that I can't decide on what to do. Whatever you decide to do post your results. I always love the transformation from before and after. Edit: Need to add that I didn't mean that using boiling water would shrink your scales since it has only happened with two sets of Droescher scales and not with other ones.
Last edited by JSmith1983; 05-25-2018 at 10:27 PM. Reason: Clarify Statement.
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The Following User Says Thank You to JSmith1983 For This Useful Post:
DZEC (06-03-2018)
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06-03-2018, 11:43 AM #7
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Thanked: 552Been on a bit of an extended holiday with wife and dogs and haven’t been able to work on the PUMA as a result. I will get back to it in a week.
I am ordering some replacement horn scales from Fendrihan. They are relatively inexpensive and will allow me to try a few options. Pic will follow as I move forward.
Thanks again to everyone who posted suggestions. They have been very helpful.David
“Shared sorrow is lessened, shared joy is increased”
― Spider Robinson, Callahan's Crosstime Saloon
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07-25-2019, 12:26 PM #8
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07-25-2019, 01:15 PM #9
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Thanked: 552Don’t know. Wouldn’t hurt to try.
David
“Shared sorrow is lessened, shared joy is increased”
― Spider Robinson, Callahan's Crosstime Saloon
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07-26-2019, 10:36 AM #10
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