Thread: Inlays in horn

The inlay is exposed and flush, it can’t be felt if you run your fingers over it. The recess for the inlay is inlay as deep as the inlay is thick, I’m hoping this allows the horn to shrink and move and just take the inlay along for the ride without any finish issues.

Not a bad job. I bet cutting out that tiny shape would be tough.

Pain in the rear, had I’d done a better job it would have been well worth the trouble. If I do it again a far simpler shape and some steam would make an easily job of it.

Originally Posted by jfk742

Pain in the rear, had I’d done a better job it would have been well worth the trouble. If I do it again a far simpler shape and some steam would make an easily job of it.

Thank you for this tutorial! This was very informative! Every bit of inlay info I'm trying to really take in, inlays have always been a big interest for me, though I've never really dug in to the project.
When dealing with most scale material (I assume g10 doesn't expand/contract much though), you will always experience a degree of warping I think. The usual temp expansion/contraction could pop inlays out, but usually bounces back. Long term contraction though, like with horn, seems an issue. I assume keeping it oiled is key.
I wonder if oiling it before the process will help the horn find a stable resting place before the work..? Probably.
Old horn too is a good idea.
I have experienced warping in a few ways, so I'm always keeping it in mind now. Having thicker CA on one side of scales than the other, caused a set of scales to warp because CA contracts when it dries, and the one side "overpowered" the other.
You had a tough job on that horn because it's so hard to cover up or blend delamination, even with thin CA, and inclusions are a result. (Tough job also with the intricacy of inlay and other challenges). And so the scales are often just dyed.
Ive wondered how effective a vacuum chamber would be, though I don't think anything will remove the inclusions 100%.
Maybe keeping the spot wet with oil while digging out, but that would mess with the glue when inlay is placed.. Unless glue is not used.

Thanks JFK. Always enjoy seeing restoration tutorials.

Oh, excellent job on the inlay by the way!
We are often our own toughest critics, I think your work was very good, especially since its "hopefully" only the beginning, and you continue to explore and develop the process..

I think with some small carving tools would be a much better choice. I assume inlays in Bakelite they molded them in. The usual horn inlays seem much more straight forward as they’re way less intricate, though they are also way thicker and have tabs on the back, so no adhesive needed. Keeping the scales hydrated with oil would probably take care of the usual issues we see in vintage razors with inlayed horn.

I need to find another victim and try some different things.