Thread: Buffing by hand instead of buffing wheel or dremel?

Some say to not use a Dremel, some say to not use a buffing wheel and do the restoration by hand. If so, do I need a particular cotton cloth and buffing/polishing compound or CrOx after hand-sanding? What do I need besides sandpaper to restore a razor and which polish (I currently have Maas).

I use an ok T-shirt and Mothers Metal Polish. I may wrap Arab around my finger or wine cork.

There are lots of posts and conversation about this topic in the "What are you working on?" thread in the workshop forum. I have a drill jig made to wrap sandpaper around which I use to hand sand. Lots of people use a wine cork or if you want something longer you can use a 1" dowel rod. Some people use craft foam around it to give it some give. If it has an engraving I will often use a dowel or brass tube by itself to make it more stuff so it will sand more on the surface. That way it doesn't wear down the engraving as much. DO NOT SAND AN ACID ETCH! YOU'LL RUIN IT. I do use a buffing wheel on occasion but the metal polish with a cloth won't round off the edges as much and will do a surprising amount of cleaning as well as polishing. I use 3M Marine Metal Restorer And Polish. Check "What are you working on?" thread though. Literally everything you could imagine on this topic is already in there.

I think you misunderstand, you can buff with a buffer or a Dremel, but both are dangerous, it is not a matter of if you will lose control of a razor but when, and how much damage you do to yourself and the razor.

Hell, hand sanding and polishing a razor is dangerous, I have probable been cut more times hand sanding and polishing. Fortunately, none have been deep or anything a drop of CA and some masking tape could not fix.

WD40, 000 steel wool, wine cork, 2 pieces of craft foam, paper towels and any good metal polish, Maas is very good polish.

If you hand sand, get 2 pieces of 8X12in X 6mm (1/4in) thick craft foam and use that as a work matt. If you are cleaning a razor you can cover with a paper shop towel to collect the mess, (cleaning with WD40 and steel wool).

Cut 2 3x3 in squares from the other piece and lay the blade on one square and the tail on the other, with the scales at 90 degrees between the two squares. When you press on the blade, the pressure will burry the edge into the foam and cannot cut you. You can sand or polish right up to the edge.

Use a wine cork as a backer and roll 3x3in piece of wet and dry around the cork. Roll the cork to get fresh paper on the steel. You can rotate the 4 sides of the paper to use every inch of the paper. A synthetic wine cork has flat ends that can get into the corner of the blade at the stabilizers.

Polish the same way, up to 1 or 2K, Maas is one of the best polishes, in my opinion, but can be hard to fine. Another great polish many of us use it 3m marine metal and chrome polish. It too is difficult to find, I buy from a marine supply online. 3m and steel wool are great for cleaning after you remove the rust with WD40.
Hand sanding is time consuming, but results can be great, Dremel takes technique, use a variable speed motor and flex shaft hand piece for better control and safety. Buffers deliver stellar result in the right hands, there is a learning curve and can quickly ruin a razor.

Get a couple beater razors and try each method and find the one that works for you.

As with most thing there is not easy way or free lunch, each has a cost.

Originally Posted by Euclid440

...Buffers deliver stellar result in the right hands, there is a learning curve and can quickly ruin a razor.

AND with the slightest misstep can turn a razor into an incredibly sharp missile.
A lot of people make a work block with neodymium magnets in it to hold the razor in place.



In the top picture to the left is the drill jig sander that I was referring to earlier. To the right of it is a tapping block for flooring that you can get at any home improvement store. It has a stepped up piece on either side that you can lean the razor against to hold it steady. The second picture shows the lower step side which is the one I normally use. The third picture is just to demonstration of how to use it.
As stated don't try it the first time on your heirloom. It is better to make mistakes on one that is NOT irreplaceable.

Originally Posted by Euclid440

I think you misunderstand, you can buff with a buffer or a Dremel, but both are dangerous, it is not a matter of if you will lose control of a razor but when, and how much damage you do to yourself and the razor.

Hell, hand sanding and polishing a razor is dangerous, I have probable been cut more times hand sanding and polishing. Fortunately, none have been deep or anything a drop of CA and some masking tape could not fix.

WD40, 000 steel wool, wine cork, 2 pieces of craft foam, paper towels and any good metal polish, Maas is very good polish.

If you hand sand, get 2 pieces of 8X12in X 6mm (1/4in) thick craft foam and use that as a work matt. If you are cleaning a razor you can cover with a paper shop towel to collect the mess, (cleaning with WD40 and steel wool).

Cut 2 3x3 in squares from the other piece and lay the blade on one square and the tail on the other, with the scales at 90 degrees between the two squares. When you press on the blade, the pressure will burry the edge into the foam and cannot cut you. You can sand or polish right up to the edge.

Use a wine cork as a backer and roll 3x3in piece of wet and dry around the cork. Roll the cork to get fresh paper on the steel. You can rotate the 4 sides of the paper to use every inch of the paper. A synthetic wine cork has flat ends that can get into the corner of the blade at the stabilizers.

Polish the same way, up to 1 or 2K, Maas is one of the best polishes, in my opinion, but can be hard to fine. Another great polish many of us use it 3m marine metal and chrome polish. It too is difficult to find, I buy from a marine supply online. 3m and steel wool are great for cleaning after you remove the rust with WD40.
Hand sanding is time consuming, but results can be great, Dremel takes technique, use a variable speed motor and flex shaft hand piece for better control and safety. Buffers deliver stellar result in the right hands, there is a learning curve and can quickly ruin a razor.

Get a couple beater razors and try each method and find the one that works for you.

As with most thing there is not easy way or free lunch, each has a cost.

Are you saying that WD40 and 000 steel wool are alternatives to sanding in removing rust and patina?

No, but steel wool and WD40 will remove a lot of active yellow rust and gunk and give you a good look at what you are up against.

Many a razor will clean up with WD40 and steel wool and polish nicely with a good metal polish and steel wool and paper towels. WD40 sprayed between the scales and a paper towel wrapped around a wooden coffee stir stick will clean between the scales nicely, followed up with Simple Green to remove the WD40.