Quote Originally Posted by CrescentCityRazors View Post
Haha not sarcasm, at least not directed at you. Just remembering all the busted up razors I have seen for sale online, and sellers mystified as to why a few chunks missing from the razor ought to be such a big deal.

Soldering and brazing all take place at temperatures significantly lower than the melting point of the base metal. So by definition pure iron or steel could not be used as solder on steel.

Sn43Pb43Bi14 paste solder, according to Kester's chart, melts at between 291f to 324f, so it would have minimal effect on the blade temper, if the steel is heated barely to the melting point of that solder. Sn62Pb36Ag2 melts at 354f, which is getting up into the danger zone but careful work ought to leave you with a usable temper in the steel. Sn63Pb37 is a common alloy with a melting point of 361f. Both of those alloys are available as wire or as paste. Common 60/40 solder melts at between 361 and 374 degrees. Most other well known solders melt at 400f or higher and so no matter how careful you are, you would be pushing the temper with any razor steel that I am familiar with.

Keep in mind though, that a razor doesn't have to be a perfect 61HRC to shave. You could push it to about 56HRC and still have a useful razor. The temperature for a particular hardness of course varies with the steel alloy and the post-quench hardness. So apparently my formerly held opinion that trying to solder a razor would result in a useless piece of junk is not necessarily accurate.

The extent of damage in your razor would not encourage me to even try to solder it, nonetheless. But as an academic exercise, it might be interesting to try. I don't think you will master a technique with just one razor, though.
Cant argue much with your fair point. I might take up the challenge and let you guys know how it goes.

Thanks again for your detailed input.