Thread: Scale Graft

This worked out pretty well, a Harwood & Co.
Final photos haven't been taken yet but it lay very nicely on the hones .

I generally rebuild the missing part with horn dust and superglue. Try and match the color or pattern and do final two layers of superglue.

Originally Posted by JOB15

This worked out pretty well, a Harwood & Co.
Final photos haven't been taken yet but it lay very nicely on the hones .

Any chance of a bit more detail about your repair? Such as that the graft was, what you used to join them and perhaps how you brought the colors out? Just wondering.

Nice save, Joseph. What was your process in dying the scales, and with what, for dye.

Firstly:
Take a piece of horn slightly thicker & larger than needed.
Marry the two pieces together with Epoxy. This join is weak so hold it firm in place with one hand and then apply Bondic instant UV glue to the outside, this should hold the pieces together and give the epoxy a chance to set.

A day later remove the Bondic or not and carefully dremel out two channels deep enough for a section of 1/16th brass pin to sit below half way.
Then mix a batch of epoxy.. After it is well mixed add some dye & bone dust. Set the pins in place and O.D on the epoxy mix.
Let this set and cure for a few days, then shape..
I used loreal hair dye, why? because i'm worth it ...sorry..

I would not go to these lengths for anything other than a stubtail . These types of old razors really need their original scales in my opinion. Most other razors i think look better with my own hand made scales.

Hope this helps.
Thanks

Originally Posted by outback

Nice save, Joseph. What was your process in dying the scales, and with what, for dye.

Process : Drop on blobs of dye for 1 hour..I think this dye had lost some potency because it was open from a long time ago?
I did forget what i was supposed to do because it was so long since i last used hair dye..Next time i will tan the whole of the scales and then add darker blobs..

I do a fair amount of Faux finishes, on props and other things. The trick to a realistic faux finish is applying multiple thin layers, washes of finish in different opacity in random patterns. I apply, remove and shape patterns with small torn natural sponges to create random patterns. For paint finish it is more about how much you remove, than apply. You can always apply more, if needed.

Layering washes recreates and blends the finish much as produced by nature in thin layers.

Joseph, that is one of the nicest Faux Tort ice Shell finishes I have seen. Great work, as always.

Originally Posted by Euclid440

I do a fair amount of Faux finishes, on props and other things. The trick to a realistic faux finish is applying multiple thin layers, washes of finish in different opacity in random patterns. I apply, remove and shape patterns with small torn natural sponges to create random patterns. For paint finish it is more about how much you remove, than apply. You can always apply more, if needed.

Layering washes recreates and blends the finish much as produced by nature in thin layers.

Joseph, that is one of the nicest Faux Tort ice Shell finishes I have seen. Great work, as always.

You are spot on with those layers..I have seen some really poor vintage faux tortoise that actually look like tiger stripes
Kind words..Thank you.

Originally Posted by Euclid440

I apply, remove and shape patterns with small torn natural sponges to create random patterns.
Joseph, that is one of the nicest Faux Tort ice Shell finishes I have seen. Great work, as always.

The hardest pattern for me to make is a random pattern. Why do they call it a pattern? LOL

I agree nice job Joseph!

Originally Posted by 32t

The hardest pattern for me to make is a random pattern. Why do they call it a pattern? LOL

I agree nice job Joseph!

Thanks.
I cannot figure out why whenever I make scales the "B" side scale always looks better than the "A" side scale.