Thread: Can these be salvaged?

New to razor grinding.
Made the same mistake on both blades. Mid-spine you can see the gash made by the grinder wheel. I am still going to put a finished edge on these and try them. They are blades #2 and #3 in my learning curve.

Is there a type of file work or purposeful decoration that I can incorporate into these or am I hosed?

Both are 1/4’ spine, 1095 steel, one is 6/8 the other 8/8 both ground on a 6” wheel.

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Look up a "vine and thorn" file work pattern. The typical spacing is 1/4". Try using either a 3/8" or 1/2".
Whatever you decide it will be good practice.

Thought about something like some firework. I have seen some wide and shallow scallops. My worry is that th firework will wreak havoc on my honing stones. Does using tape on the honing prevent that?

Originally Posted by woodscavenger

Thought about something like some firework. I have seen some wide and shallow scallops. My worry is that th firework will wreak havoc on my honing stones. Does using tape on the honing prevent that?

The edges of the filework can be buffed smooth so they do not damage the hones or you can use tape on the spine while honing ... carefully.
In any event you should not have a sharp edge touching the hone or the strop.

If nothing else, you can experiment with usability of your design, Heat treat and honing.

The tail on the first one looks like it would be awkward to hold and shave with. There is a reason, most razors evolved into a similar shape, Form follows Function.
I would also round the heel on that one, a spike heel will cut you. I do like the smile.

It is interesting what issues are discovered in actual use of a razor, not just the shaving edge, but honing, stropping, how it feels in the hand when shaving. So. even if you do not file work the spine, finishing and using them will teach you more than you think.

File work will not affect the spine, especially if you tape, and you should, no good reason not to.

I do like the blade designs. Along with your blade design, scale design plays a huge part to a comfortable, usable razor. Again, take cues from the old masters, there is a reason those designs are still coveted and sought-after, hundreds of years later.

Euclid, thanks for the tips. As with my other posts you are a wealth of great info.

I have alway had in mind finishing these blades. I am keeping notes on grind grits, heat treat temps of the blade and the quench, temper temps, ease of honing.

I also realize some of the curves are way off. I just got my small wheel set so that will help me with the tails.

I also agree on the spike corners, those will be smoothed. I have been shaving for about 3 years and don’t relish a bite from a sharp tip or heel.

I am also finding the truth of what you stated about hand holds while shaving and most especially stropping. I have a couple vintages that I rescaled with what I felt were beautiful designs shapes which make them a beast to strop!

I will number these and keep them to see how much progress I make.

Spike points are especially useful, but pointed heels are cutters. I do ensure that both toes and heel are fully honed. I shave with both a spiked toe and well-honed and rounded heel.

I am always mystified by razors that come in for honing with dull toes and heels.

Yes, stropping is where you quickly learn if razor and scale design works, or not. Shaving you can work around a clunky razor but flipping an awkward honker can tear up a strop or is just asking to be dropped.

Nice work, I am sure you can salvage both with some creative spine work.

Might not be able to file them if already HT'd depending on how hard you left them. Just sharpen them up if you want to check that your HT is good, but you just need to accept that you're going to lose some blades. Steel is cheap, time is expensive.