Thread: Suminagashi layering?

This question goes out to you Custom makers, I own a lovely Suminagashi custom razor that shaves like a dream, what I would like to know how do I retain the Suminagashi pattern because it does start to slightly fade, I don't want to send it back to the maker I would much rather do this myself, so what solution including the level of dilution and method do I use.

One way I have done it on razors is apply a thin strip of fingernail polish to cover the bevel. My way of doing it is after degreasing in dish soap and using rubber gloves is to put a drop or two on a piece of paper and lightly drag the blade through it. Once that cures, you can dip the blade into a 50/50 solution of ferric chloride/distilled water. I normally hold mine in the solution for approximately 15 seconds. Rinse and rub the blade under warm running water. If you want more, use a paper towel and dry the blade & dip until you have reached the level of etch you want. Then, rinse the blade well with an ammonia based window cleaner to neutralize the acid. Apply acetone to tissue paper and remove the nail polish, hone, and enjoy your refreshed blade.

WHATEVER YOU DO, DO NOT SUBMERSE AND GET SIDE TRACKED...that's a whole other story, but the end is that the solution will destroy your blade.

Scott, do I need to cover the bevel with nail polish? or can I just do the whole blade then hone the razor after I have finished the process, plus what strength solution do I buy, I see it for sale saying Ferric Chloride Solution 40% Working Strength for PCB Etching, does that mean I still dilute it 50/50?

I don't know if it's possible, but asking Cedric's advice may be a good idea. Worst case is that you will get no info, which just puts you back here.

I use a pretty mild solution of ferric chloride and normally etch for 10 minutes. Temperature has a high effect on the speed of the etch. I think that most people do weaken the ferric chloride 50/50 from what is supplied for PCBs, but I can't really comment because I make my own ferric chloride and have nothing to compare it to. A slower etch makes for a lower likelihood of over doing it, unless of course it's slow enough that you forget it. Coming out of the etch I rinse and polish wet with 1000 grit W/D to see what I've got. If I'm happy I then go to finer abrasives then Mother's polish. There is also coffee etching which normally gives high contrast, but I've never etched Suminagashi YMMV.

Originally Posted by celticcrusader

Scott, do I need to cover the bevel with nail polish? or can I just do the whole blade then hone the razor after I have finished the process, plus what strength solution do I buy, I see it for sale saying Ferric Chloride Solution 40% Working Strength for PCB Etching, does that mean I still dilute it 50/50?

Your etching shouldn't be to deep but how thin is a razors edge?

Originally Posted by 32t

Your etching shouldn't be to deep but how thin is a razors edge?

It's a quarter hollow Hoshi Tombo custom clone.

Being that you have among the best photographic skills that I've ever seen, would it be possible to show us the razor in its faded state?

As black as that etch is in the picture, I have a feeling that may be the instant coffee etch like Victor mentioned or gun blue. Bruno would be a great person to talk to about the instant coffee as I have not tried it and I know he has experience with it. Cold blueing is a matter of degreasing and dipping like ferric chloride, I usually start with 5 minutes, rinse in warm water and buff with 000 steel wool.

On protecting the bevel, it may not be necessary...but I do it so I don't have to do a deep/full bevel set and sacrifice steel. If you don't protect the edge, the etch will be very clean and precise.

On the dilution of ferric chloride, I diluted the pre-mixed pcb etchant. I have no clue what my original mix was.

Originally Posted by bluesman7

Being that you have among the best photographic skills that I've ever seen, would it be possible to show us the razor in its faded state?

Victor, It's not that bad to be perfectly honest considering I use the razor a lot, I'm just thinking further into the future when the time comes I'll be equipped with the know-how and knowledge to carry out the process correctly.

Since it will be a bit into the future I would advise getting some scraps or inexpensive pieces of PWS or if possible Suminagashi to experiment with.

I'm thinking that the etch on that razor does look like a coffee etch. One good thing about the coffee etch is that it is much milder and the edge protection should be less important.