Thread: 7/8 Hollow grinding

Originally Posted by jfk742

I would live to see some of that masecraft faux ivory if you have a picture of a razor in a set of scales.

I’ll have to try some cork belts. How do they compare to scotch bright? The razors are looking good!

I have a thread about the Masecraft Ivory in the workshop section. Shouldn't be too far down the list. There's a photo in there but it's pretty hard to capture the nuances, especially after polishing the scales. I'm looking forward to the Warther ivory getting here, they have two types, +R and +S, one is a flat-sawn effect and the other has the Schreger line patterning you'd get in quarter-sawn.

I much prefer the cork belts over the Scotchbrite/non-woven belts since they don't seem to round surfaces as much as they're much stiffer surfaced. I really can't stand it when all the lines on a razor kind of melt together. The cork belts really complement the Trizact belts, there really isn't any need for anything else apart from some coarse ceramics for roughing out. Once I get into the 400-800 grit range I will alternate between Trizact and cork, the cork softens any errant scratches from the Trizact, I rarely find myself having to go back down to a lower grit. Using layout blue or a Sharpie helps too, I color all over the blade faces so when I'm grinding, any deep scratches from a previous grit will be very obvious.

It's very important to work up the grits. I'll rough everything in with 40 Grit ceramic, then go to Trizacts A300, A160, A65, A45, Cork 400, Cork 600, A30, Cork 800, A20, A16, A5. Sounds like a lot but it's actually pretty fast since you're working sytematically and in batch form. I ground all the faces on those razors from post heat treat to finished in about 3 hours whilst taking liberal coffee breaks.