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Thread: Scale restoration question

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by outback View Post
    I'm trying fellas.....

    I've completed half of the info 3 times now, only to have someone send me a PM in the middle of it. Well....I locks my phone up, till I close what I'm doing and answer it. I loose several hours of typing and downloading pics, every time. I'll try again tomorrow, for Im about livid with this, right now.

    Think I'll head to the workshop, got a FBU in the mailbox today. Needs a bit of TLC
    Hey, also, if you'd find it easier, you could just write all of this by hand, take some photos, put those here, and I could transcribe them for you.

    I'm guessing I type faster on my laptop than you do on your phone.

    My dad didn't teach me much, but my mom was an English teacher, so we are now in my wheelhouse.

    rolodave and outback like this.

  2. #22
    Senior Member blabbermouth outback's Avatar
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    I'd thought about that, but then I can't put in pics where they need to be.

    I'll keep trying, though.
    skald likes this.
    Mike

  3. #23
    Skeptical Member Gasman's Avatar
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    cleaning bone is a hydrogen peroxide soak. conditioning is a soak in neatsfoot oil.
    But Mike will put it all together.
    JP5 and skald like this.
    It's just Sharpening, right?
    Jerry...

  4. #24
    Senior Member blabbermouth outback's Avatar
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    OK. First off. I'm no pro, the resources/knowledge, all came from this forum. Either through our library, or other members, here. And yes, some of my own ideas, and techniques, or modifications of others, ideas.

    The library and the workshop, are jampacked with restoration information.

    But as for bone or ivory. I guess first thing is determining how dry or brittle they are. If their in a fragile state...I'd soak the whole razor in mineral oil, for a couple weeks.

    Preferably, somewhere warm. During this time of year, I put them on the furnace, where it doesn't get too hot. In the summer, I put them in a sunny, window sill.

    This will give some life to the scales, and ease in the disassembly of the razor.

    So here's my process, hopefully the best I can describe for y'all ta understand, and try fer yasef.

    1st.
    A. Carefully drill pins, and save collars, (if applicable)
    separate scales and razor.
    B. Clean as much dirty and rust from scales, as
    possible. (Toothbrush, degreaser, ect)
    C. Let dry.
    D. Once dry, glue n clamp any cracks with CA. ( if
    applicable)
    E. Sand scales with 220 grt., to smooth out and
    remove excess CA., and to prep the scales for
    bleaching.

    2nd.
    A. Find a small bowl/dish with a lid, that will
    accommodate the scales.
    B. Place scales in container, and cover with hydrogen
    peroxide, install lid, soak to your liking.
    Note: This takes awhile with normal, everyday
    peroxide. Solon grade, is another beast.
    It works faster, but it'll burn your skin, too.
    C. Once bleached to your liking, remove and rinse
    under water, let dry.

    3rd.
    A. Find a hard, flat, surface to work on. Preferably,
    portable. I use a piece of corian countertop.
    B. Cover it with wax paper, taped down flat. "No
    wrinkles" !! And make sure there's no debris
    between the paper and the work surface. " IT'S
    GOTTA BE FLAT" !! Its the mold for the inside of
    the scales, and the release agent for the work
    surface.
    4th.
    If I had a large piece that needed patched/
    replaced, I would do the repairs before the
    fiberglass backers.
    A. Tape scales down to the wax paper, so they won't
    move.
    B. Don't tape over the repair area.

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    C. Using baking soda, build up the missing area, so
    its slightly higher and bigger than it needs to be.
    You'll need it to sand and blend the repair to the
    original scale dimensions.
    D. Apply "Thin CA" to the entire area of baking soda,
    starting at the scale, working towards the edge of
    the repair. It hardens instantly, so move fast.!
    If your repair isn't big enough, just add more soda
    and CA. Building in layers is favored for large
    areas, because of how fast it cures. I've had
    some cure, before all the soda was saturated.
    It was a mess.!
    E. If successful... Remove tape, and carefully remove
    scales from wax paper. It may tear the paper, the
    heat generated by the CA n soda, kinda melts the
    paper to the scales.
    F. Sand repair to original, outer contour
    G. Sand repair to original thickness, and shape.

    I do most of the heavy sanding, with 220 grt. W/D.
    Then progress with 400,600,1000 grt., after I've done
    the glass work. Then polish.

    If all went well with the CA n soda, the inside of the
    scales should be flat, and only need a good scuffing
    with 220, before bonding the fiberglass. If not...
    Add more CA n soda, then sand, till it is.

    5th.
    A. Replace wax paper. Same as before... Tight n
    flat.
    B. Make a support that will evenly distribute the
    weight, put on both the scales. I use Popsicle
    sticks for my support, and my pinning anvil for the
    weight. (4" piece or RR track). Its gotta have
    some heft to it. Like a jar of loose change. It
    needs to press out all air bubbles and excess
    epoxy, for a proper bond to the scales.

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    6th.
    A. Gather your fiberglass strips.
    B. Prepare your epoxy. I use System Three, T-88
    structural epoxy.
    C. Wipe down scales, with denatured alcohol.
    D. Coat the inside only of one scale, with epoxy.
    Don't goop it on, or your going to have epoxy on
    everything.
    E. Place one layer of glass at a time on the scale,
    making sure its saturated, centered, and flat, over
    the scale. " No Wrinkles "
    F. Carefully apply another coat of epoxy, without
    disturbing the first strip of glass. And install
    second strip of glass, like the first.
    G. Place on wax paper covered work space,
    fiberglass side down. Make sure that's where
    you want to put it. You can't pick it back up,
    once you do. Always thinking ahead.!
    H. Repeat with second scale, place next to other
    scale on work space.
    I. Place support on scales, and install weight.

    Note:
    Keep a close eye on the scales for several minutes,
    while everything is squishing down n out. The first
    set I did, slid apart. Had to start over, and steady
    the weight till all got smooshed down.

    7th.
    A. Once cured, (72 hrs. for T-88) you can remove
    weight, support and scales.
    B. Removal of excess fiberglass n epoxy from outer
    edge of scales, with a utility knife/razor blade.
    Make sure its sharp, or you'll have little strands of
    fiberglass sticking from your scales.

    Besides your final sanding and polishing to the tops of the scales, your done.!! The inside of the scales should be smooth n perfectly flat. Ready for pinning, or putting in mineral oil, for a good soak.
    Last edited by outback; 03-11-2022 at 02:42 AM.
    Mike

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    32t (03-11-2022), DZEC (03-11-2022), Gasman (03-11-2022), JP5 (03-11-2022), markbignosekelly (03-15-2022), PaulFLUS (03-11-2022), randydance062449 (03-11-2022), RezDog (03-11-2022), skald (03-15-2022), STF (03-11-2022)

  6. #25
    Senior Member blabbermouth PaulFLUS's Avatar
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    No pro...sheesh. Maybe I could answer the phone and take messages. "Mike's school of razor restoration. How may I direct your call? I'm sorry Mike can't come to the phone right now. He's busy schooling the rest of us."

    Nice tutorial
    tintin, JP5, outback and 3 others like this.
    Iron by iron is sharpened, And a man sharpens the face of his friend. PR 27:17

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  8. #26
    Senior Member blabbermouth PaulFLUS's Avatar
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    Also Mike you can always, before you leave your post or if you get the "... because the token expired," message, hard tap, select all, copy and then when you revisit, hard tap paste...you may have to add the pics back in because sometimes the copy/paste doesn't translate the photos but you should be able to save it all otherwise.
    outback, STF and skald like this.
    Iron by iron is sharpened, And a man sharpens the face of his friend. PR 27:17

  9. #27
    Skeptical Member Gasman's Avatar
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    Very nice write-up, Mike. And thanks for sharing the way you do it.
    outback and STF like this.
    It's just Sharpening, right?
    Jerry...

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  11. #28
    Senior Member blabbermouth RezDog's Avatar
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    That was very well said. Thanks for taking the time to make it very clear.
    outback and STF like this.
    It's not what you know, it's who you take fishing!

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  13. #29
    Senior Member blabbermouth outback's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PaulFLUS View Post
    Also Mike you can always, before you leave your post or if you get the "... because the token expired," message, hard tap, select all, copy and then when you revisit, hard tap paste...you may have to add the pics back in because sometimes the copy/paste doesn't translate the photos but you should be able to save it all otherwise.
    What for....I'm the one who wrote it. Your the one's that need to save it. Its locked in my ol' memory bank. Plus I wrote it all down, anyhoo.
    Mike

  14. #30
    Senior Member blabbermouth outback's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RezDog View Post
    That was very well said. Thanks for taking the time to make it very clear.
    You wouldn't believe the time I've invested in accomplishing it. Several lost attempts at downloading. Several pages of notes and getting them in proper oder.
    Doing it all on my phone, with the end of my right thumb.

    If someone wants to make a sticky or whatever, feel free. I can't take any more.

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