Thread: Hinge Holes

Originally Posted by STF

Just so I am sure I understand Paul, cut the pin off just about as flush as I can with my flush cutters after the colar is on?

The tiny fraction that is impossible to cut flush is all I need to peen?

Yes, as close as you can get with a pair of side cutters. This seems like it is too close but it is just right. Often I file the top of the pin after the cut as Mike said but mainly to start flat. That way the first few taps start to mushroom the pin. Some start with a previously mushroomed pin but I quit doing that after a try or two because I think the way I described earlier in the thread works better. By the way I got that method (hole in the block to start the peening) I got from a video taken from the Dovo factory.

The biggest thing with peening is not to think about how long. Instead look at the pin and concentrate on how it looks. It's like Tom Selleck in the first season of Magnum PI when he is picking a lock and the dog is coming down the hall towards him. He says to himself, "Forget about the dog. Concentrate on working the lock." It sounds trite but it's true. Forget about how long or what it is taking. Just trust the process and keep lightly tapping until it is right. Oh, and if you don't tap too hard the collar should stay put. It's too much vibration that makes it bounce off.

Keep with it. You'll get it.

So I understand complety, are we talking about cutting the pin as flush as possible before peening with ordinary pliers or flush cutters?

I just don't want the pin too long again, or too short to peen.

They may call them something else in other parts of the English speaking world, I'm not sure. In the US we call them side cutters.

Originally Posted by PaulFLUS

They may call them something else in other parts of the English speaking world, I'm not sure. In the US we call them side cutters.

Ok, thanks paul. I only have either flush cutters or pliers.



The flush cutters might cut the pin very close to the collar or even flush with it.



The pliers can cut the rod but not as flush to the washer so there would be something left to peen and if needed the rod could be filed shorter.

I welcome any advice so I hopefully get the length better this try.

I am all in favour of learning from my mistakes but try not to repeat them.

As you have figured out, Flush cutters cut flush! This is not what you want. Side cutters (or in the world I grew up in we called them Dykes and not the female type) cut with a little leftover. Not flush. Some people will figure out exactly what they want left of the pin and make a piece of metal with a hole in it with the exact thickness. Slip that over the pin and cut with flush cutters. This gives them exactly what they want to start with.

I use Dykes, then file what is left flat and to the length I want. We all have our way. After you do a few you will figure it out. This is why it's recommended to start with tongue depressors of popsicle sticks or paint stirrers. You get the practice and figure out what extra you want before going to the scales. Good luck.

Originally Posted by Gasman

As you have figured out, Flush cutters cut flush! This is not what you want. Side cutters (or in the world I grew up in we called them Dykes and not the female type) cut with a little leftover. Not flush. Some people will figure out exactly what they want left of the pin and make a piece of metal with a hole in it with the exact thickness. Slip that over the pin and cut with flush cutters. This gives them exactly what they want to start with.

I use Dykes, then file what is left flat and to the length I want. We all have our way. After you do a few you will figure it out. This is why it's recommended to start with tongue depressors of popsicle sticks or paint stirrers. You get the practice and figure out what extra you want before going to the scales. Good luck.

What he said.

Here, it explains all about how to fit it correctly for peening..

https://youtu.be/mmwvf8xLKmk

Steve, a good method and one I often use, cut your pin to the approximate size that you want, then clamp it hard in a pair of mole grips with just enough of your pinhead showing place your washer over the pin, now peen the head while clamped in the mole-grips, finish the pinhead polish it now you only have one side to peen when you place the pin in your pivot.

Ok, I unpinned that razor, those of you that thought the pin was bent got it spot on, I had to cut it and move it a bit - cut a bit more - rinse & repeat.

My exciting discoveries, I found a pair of side cutter/dykes in my tool box and a center-punch, no way will it be 1/16, I'm not that lucky - guess what

I kept my rod the full length and peened one end. I took it out of the vice and turned it around with about an inch of the unpeened end showing and put a collar on, I added the scales and forced them open enough to add a washer, the blade and the other washer.

I took the whole thing from the vice and added the final collar then cut the pin stock with the dykes I had just come across. A bit of pin was still sticking out so i tried to shorten it with the flush cutters. Oops, I started all over again but this time filed the pin a bit shorter instead of flush cutting it.

I am so happy, the pin is tight and although i need practice not to hit the scales with the hammer, everything is coming up roses





It stays where I put it now, so happy!





I killed the edge so well I couldn't cut a length of string because i just knew pinning a sharp razor was going to hurt me otherwise.

Now it's pinned properly, I can feel a Coti edge coming on.

Originally Posted by celticcrusader

Steve, a good method and one I often use, cut your pin to the approximate size that you want, then clamp it hard in a pair of mole grips with just enough of your pinhead showing place your washer over the pin, now peen the head while clamped in the mole-grips, finish the pinhead polish it now you only have one side to peen when you place the pin in your pivot.

Thanks Jamie, I have a couple of pairs of mole grips so Ill try that next time, it might be better that a vice because I'll be able to move them around.