Thread: To Unpin or Not to Unpin, That is My Question

Originally Posted by skald

This has been my solution so far.

A large part of me thinks that all of the fuss of saving collars and stuff is a bit unnecessary, since I can buy very similar replacements online...

But another part of me is a big snob that wants as much of my razors as possible to be original parts.

I'm just figuring out the cost/benefit analysis of which part is worth listening to...

Consider that straight razors were just tools not even valuable enough to have serial numbers and made in the thousands if not millions. Being all original does not matter much. The only exceptions that I can think of is if you are buying NIB razors or a very rare specimen. In most cases I would not loose any sleep over the decision and do what is convenient.

Bob

Originally Posted by BobH

Consider that straight razors were just tools not even valuable enough to have serial numbers and made in the thousands if not millions. Being all original does not matter much. The only exceptions that I can think of is if you are buying NIB razors or a very rare specimen. In most cases I would not loose any sleep over the decision and do what is convenient.

Bob

This is totally accurate... But worthless object + time = priceless artifact.

Broken pot shards and bone fragments that were literally tossed in the fire are now invaluable lenses into ancient ways of life. Bills of lading that were used to wipe people's butts are now priceless sources of information.

So you're right - they're just things, but dealing with old things always has a more complicated set of choices.

I realize that a 100 or 200 year old razor isn't the Rosetta stone or the Gilgamesh tablets or anything, but they're still more valuable as artifacts than they were as manufactured items originally.

Then again, cleaning without unpinning is a giant pain in my ass, so there's also that...

XD

Old n rare....yes, save the collars. Others are a dime a dozen.

I use a rechargeable screw driver with the 1/4" adapter, that excepts the 1/4" lugged drill bits, for drilling pins. A magnifying glass so to see I'm keeping it centered.

Once the collar comes off, I use a 1/16" drift punch to push the pin thru.

I've had no luck with using a drill press.

Go slow, and check with magnification...its that easy.

Originally Posted by skald

This is totally accurate... But worthless object + time = priceless artifact.

Broken pot shards and bone fragments that were literally tossed in the fire are now invaluable lenses into ancient ways of life. Bills of lading that were used to wipe people's butts are now priceless sources of information.

So you're right - they're just things, but dealing with old things always has a more complicated set of choices.

I realize that a 100 or 200 year old razor isn't the Rosetta stone or the Gilgamesh tablets or anything, but they're still more valuable as artifacts than they were as manufactured items originally.

Then again, cleaning without unpinning is a giant pain in my ass, so there's also that...

XD

Have it your way. I still think you are placing too much value on a common artefact that is still in production.

Bob

Just think.......All that gunk, filth and muck in there is OTHER people's crud. YUK!!! You have the skills, so unpin 'em and clean 'em out thoroughly. It's my crud or no crud.

Originally Posted by Tathra11

Just think.......All that gunk, filth and muck in there is OTHER people's crud. YUK!!! You have the skills, so unpin 'em and clean 'em out thoroughly. It's my crud or no crud.

Haha! Okay, you win this thread.

Originally Posted by BobH

Have it your way. I still think you are placing too much value on a common artefact that is still in production.

Bob

I find it interesting that straight razor users/collectors place such a premium on the blade but not the scales.

Holding the razor while I drill...
I have a couple of 8" square boards that have curved channels ground into them the size of razor scales. I set the razor closed into the channels of the one that fits best. I still have to hold it and pivot the razor a little while drilling, but I can normally drill it until the collar sticks to the centering bit. At that time the head is drilled off to the point that I can wiggle the scale with my fingers and separate the pin out of the top scale. Take off the blade then push the rest of the pin through the back scale. This takes practice. I have broken many scales and I've slipped the bit a few times and that marks the scale. But after a few, I figured out how to do it.

Some people will just grind the head off and grind the collar away and that is fine. Others cut them and some get lucky enough to punch them through after drilling most of the head away. When I punch I normally crack and break so I stopped doing that. I have unpinned enough now that I take the extra effort to save all collars. Now I'm not a machine and I have wasted a lot of collars. But I like to take my time now and see if I can save them. The worst part is after you put some polish on them and get them cleaned. Then drill them out and save them. After fixing up the scales and blade and starting to put them back together I will drop one on the carpet. It happens. This is why I save all I can. LOL.

Originally Posted by 32t

I find it interesting that straight razor users/collectors place such a premium on the blade but not the scales.

What I said goes for the whole razor, not just the scales.

Bob

The prevailing MO these days is use it until it malfunctions then throw it away and get a new one. In the days when straight razors were in their hay day the MO was repair what you have because manufacturing, marketing and shipping is a BIG expense. Take that for what you will.

You could say, "Well, this is how they did it then so that is how I'm going to do it now." OR, you could say, "That was then. This is now. Things are different and the old rules dont apply."

You have to make your own judgement call on that. I will try to save what I can within reason and within what seems reasonable. In my business I charge $100/hr unless it's a fraternity house (I live in a university town) then it's $150/hr. It makes no sense to pay me $150 to fix a mechanism that costs $100 especially when you have something used when I'm done. That is assuming, of course, that we are comparing apples to apples. Of course if we are talking about a 100 year old mechanism I will ALWAYS advise you to fix it for historical reasons, unless it is beyond repair and I will give away labor because that is not for the customer, It is for me and out of respect for the mechanism that has lasted that long.

Take that for what it is worth, considering it comes from a technician with over 40 years of experience in his business.