Thread: Wedge weight

Since the library is down. How do you figure how heavy of a wedge you need?

Whatever feels comfortable to you. I personally don't see a difference between different wedges and near wedges. The all shave great.


I apologize. I thought you were inquiring about blade grind.

The wedge sets the relationship between the scales in three different axes. A well designed wedge does more than just center the razor between the scales. It can also help to form a detent area in the pivot so that the razor tends to stay open if open, closed if closed. Poorly done, it functions little better than a flat spacer. Sometimes even worse. Well done, it makes the razor almost imperceptibly nicer to handle. As a beginner, don't beat yourself up about it. Copy a wedge from a similar razor. Remember that the taper of the wedge is not only fore and aft, but also top to bottom. Figure out what you got, on an existing razor and just duplicate it as closely as possible. Do a temporary pinning to trim the edges flush with the scales. I like using size 0-80 brass bolts and nuts from microfasteners.com for trial pinning. These are really a little too soft to leave in permanently but they are great for trying stuff. You can set up your wedge and pivot how you like, or adjust the shape of your scale design, and not have to peen any nickel-silver pins over nice domed washers until you know you are on target and firing for effect.

Lead is the classic material for wedges, however you might feel about that. With acrylic, G10 scraps, horn scraps, etc, weight is not an issue. A thick wedge could possibly cause a faintly disturbing imbalance in the razor and make it just slightly awkward to someone who is really picky. You can of course drill lightening holes if you like.

Most classic razors with horn, bone, lvory, etc scales have a wedge that tapers at its thinnest, almost to nothing. The angle of taper is not something to monkey around with. Overall thickness can often be tailored as desired. I would shoot in general, depending on the grind of the razor and the shape of the scales, for a thickness at the thinnest part of about 1/16" or slightly thinner. Coincidentally that is the thickness of standard pinning stock. If you stick to that min thickness or down to maybe 1/32" as desired, your wedge should not be heavy enough to make a difference in how the razor handles.

Bottom line is do it how you feel it. If you don't like it, do it again, differently. You don't have to finish the job in 10 minutes when you are just doing your own razor for your own use. Take your time, get it right today or tomorrow or next month. It's all good.

Simply put it is after all a tool
Tools in general are designed to balance at the point you hold them
For a SR it is at the tang

This is pretty simple if you just look at what the old masters have done for almost 300 years now

The wedge is maybe the most important part o the build as it makes it all work
The scales must flex, the wedge uses the same angle as the tang keeping in mind the tang angles in two directions front to back, top to bottom
If you start your wedge at about 1/2 the thickness of the tang at the pivot, the build should work

Did you note I never addressed weight ??? it is about the balance, the weight of the wedge is so insignificant in relation to the design of the scales

Balance




ps: If you open the top thread in this section it has a listing for you and if you look under Scale Making there are a few really good threads on how to make them

https://sharprazorpalace.com/worksho...wers-here.html

Thank you everyone for the information it is greatly appreciated.