Thread: Belt sander questions

I'm considering buying a small belt sander, probably one that uses 1x30" belts. There is a model I'm looking at, made by Grizzly. It's around $60 plus shipping.

Has anyone used one of these table-top belt sanders? I don't really have the room or desire for a stand-alone unit, so it looks like this is a good option for me.

Are there belts available in grits finer than 400? Or do you go to a buffer after the belt sander?

As a side note, it's funny to note the differences between woodworking and finishing metal when it comes to abrasives. In woodworking, 400-grit is "extra fine," but it's hard to find wet-dry sandpaper below that level for metal... The guys at the hardware store looked at me like I was nuts one time when I asked for 1000-grit sandpaper.

Thanks for the advice,
Josh

Josh, a 1x42 would do you better, IMO. It's easier to find belts for it, and in finer grits. A lot of it would depend on what you're doing with it. It wouldn't work for any kind of restoration on the blade, but would probably save you a lot of time roughing out scales. You can probably find a 1x42 for around the same money. Just my $.002.

Thanks, Joe. I was hoping you'd chime in...

I didn't realize that size existed... I'm off to Google it...

Josh

I've got an old electric motor I've been saving to make a grinder/buffer/sander. Anyone know where I can get collets, wheels and other supplies for such a project?

Joe,

I found a couple of different models of 1x42 sanders. They're a little more but not bad--maybe $130 or so.

But I'm not seeing sanding belts above 320 or 400... Care to share a source?

Josh

Kyle,

To answer your question about a DIY sander, I believe Woodcraft sells the parts you're looking for (at least some of them). Check out http://www.woodcraft.com

Josh, try this site. Pop's a good fellow, and has good stuff. 3M belts down to 5 microns will be finer than 400 grit.

http://www.popsknifesupplies.com/index.html

Kyle:

try here, http://www.jantzsupply.com/cartease/search-products.cfm

or, http://www.kalamazooindustries.com/belt_sanders.asp

There are Kalamazoo setups that do not have motors so you can save some money.

For those with the typical buffer/two stone wheel grinders, look into the Multitool. This unit will replace one of the wheels and gives both disk and belt surfaces.

http://www.ausmultitool.com/Item/MT362TG.htm

Look to autobody supply shops for really fine sandpapers. Occasionally the high end woodworking shops will have stuff but not very often in my experience.

Sorry to hijack the thread a bit, but you're not the Mike Blue I've seen mentioned on other knife fora (damascus etc?) are you?

Originally Posted by JoshEarl

Joe,

I found a couple of different models of 1x42 sanders. They're a little more but not bad--maybe $130 or so.

But I'm not seeing sanding belts above 320 or 400... Care to share a source?

Josh

Go to supergrit.com or trugrit.com. I believe they have those belts up to 800. (Mike's source works, too. )

Originally Posted by murph

... you're not the Mike Blue I've seen mentioned on other knife fora (damascus etc?) are you?

Hey Murph, yup same fellow. Straight user too. I think every knifemaker should be as well. There's nothing like getting a razor sharp and cutting well to teach one about edge performance.

I knew a lot about knives and steel and most of nothing about razors before I found this place, it's been a great education in being more accurate about nomenclature, styles etc. Plus, with Joe's and Tim's recent handiwork, we'll all find out if some modern pattern welded materials will be up to the traditional standards of shaving.

One more thought about grinders. Starting out, I used a 1 x 42 grinder with a router motor attached. There's no need to comment on me being nuts for that choice of tool.

But, try to get as much horsepower as you can afford up front. I assure you, as you get better, you'll find yourself bogging down an underpowered machine or frustrated by not being able to get work done. Belts that drag the work away slowly, generate more heat. Still, RPMs will not make up for a motor that has no bottom end either.

Nother thought. The smaller machines also dull belts rapidly, if only due to the fact that they have less surface area for cutting, and again, generate more heat. Both situations can ruin a heat treated blade quicker than you can stop it. More grinding mistakes and accidents happen on used or worn belts.

Sharp belts run cooler and cut better. You have to treat the belts as if they are free and change to a new one before you think it's worn.