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Thread: Taping the spine
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01-21-2008, 06:11 PM #1
Taping the spine
Hi guys,
Had a thread here about recovering blades with nicks or chips (1/32+). Someone had mentioned "taping the spine" when taking away a lot of metal from the edge. I know this is done with black electrical tape but can anyone describe it better? Maybe with pics?
Might make for the first sticky after "The Crash".
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01-21-2008, 09:31 PM #2
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Thanked: 32You just wrap tape around the spine so the parts that would be touching the hone/strop/sandpaper are covered by the tape and not worn down when you're fixing the edge.
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01-21-2008, 10:22 PM #3
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Thanked: 2209Just take a piece of tape that is as long as the spine. Now place it over the top of the spine. Thats it!
Randolph Tuttle, a SRP Mentor for residents of Minnesota & western Wisconsin
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01-21-2008, 10:29 PM #4
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Thanked: 13247I just used this technique, but I used it because I was honing a Wedge, and wasn't getting any where after 60 passes on a Norton 1k stone... I decided that this was to much spine wear, and taped the spine.... It was an instantaneous difference, keep in mind, the bevel was getting close before, but when I taped it the change was dramatic... From almost there, to sticky sharp in 20 laps, then on the the 4k and 8k I have never used the tape for any other razor, but it sure worked on this DD wedge
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01-21-2008, 10:47 PM #5
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01-22-2008, 02:33 AM #6
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Thanked: 13247Same question I asked myself last night when I stropped it...... So I answered myself this way and it worked, "Idiot I says to myself, I think ya aught strop on the paddle with the tape, and takes it off when ya get to the hanging strop"..... My logic was that the hanging strop would flex slightly so it wouldn't make a difference, and like I said it worked....That don't mean I was right, but it worked this time
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01-22-2008, 03:54 AM #7
I use tape occasionally, but I try to avoid it. Taping DOES change the angle of the bevels on the edge, so you'll need to reapply the tape if you go to touch the razor up on a hone.
You don't need to leave the tape in place for stropping, either on a paddle strop or hanging strop. There's enough give to the leather to compensate for the slight change in angles.
If I really need to tape the spine on a razor, I will often do most of the 1K work with the tape in place, then remove the tape and do some more laps to fix the bevel. Kind of the best of both worlds.
Josh
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01-22-2008, 08:23 AM #8
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Thanked: 2209As mentioned above, the hanging strop will have enough flex so that the tape is not necessary. I use tape for all honing steps.The angle of the bevel is not determined by any special algorithm. The rule of thumb is that the width of the blade is 3.5 times the thickness of the spine. However there is a lot of variation from that.
Randolph Tuttle, a SRP Mentor for residents of Minnesota & western Wisconsin
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01-22-2008, 08:25 AM #9
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Thanked: 13247OK now this I thought of doing, but, I talked myself out of it because 1) it was going way to well to screw things up at the time, and 2) wouldn't this create a doulbe or step bevel like Tim Zowarda was talking about????
That would require even more work when re-honing the same razor....
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01-22-2008, 01:36 PM #10
I totally agree that there is nothing magical about maintaining the original bevel angle. With my slower hones, I'm not able to do touchups with a hone unless the angle is consistent. So either I hone without tape or I reapply the tape to do touchups. I'm lazy.
Josh