Thread: CA vs. Tung Oil (?)

I have to say that I think pure Tung Oil is an excellent product but I would never, ever buy TO that has added hardeners etc. Pure TO will keep indefinitely, the less air exposure the longer the life span. So always decant into a smaller container as it dwindles.
I am a tool collector & use TO on any wooden part ~ First coat ~ always generous, apply with a soft cloth, let it soak in & then remove the excess. 24 hrs later a light coat ~ any excess can be wiped off. I've never had a problem with too much oil or with drying time affecting the finish ~ and TO can be reapplied anytime you like.
.....momma

PS I have read posts about making scales from wood, ivory, bone etc If you ever try to make scales from shell be very careful as the dust is extremely toxic .

Originally Posted by momma

I have to say that I think pure Tung Oil is an excellent product but I would never, ever buy TO that has added hardeners etc. Pure TO will keep indefinitely, the less air exposure the longer the life span. So always decant into a smaller container as it dwindles.
I am a tool collector & use TO on any wooden part ~ First coat ~ always generous, apply with a soft cloth, let it soak in & then remove the excess. 24 hrs later a light coat ~ any excess can be wiped off. I've never had a problem with too much oil or with drying time affecting the finish ~ and TO can be reapplied anytime you like.
.....momma

PS I have read posts about making scales from wood, ivory, bone etc If you ever try to make scales from shell be very careful as the dust is extremely toxic .

Great info, thanks,

Wood dust from sanding or turning can be very toxic. Here is a link to a toxicity chart from the Greater Vancouver Woodturners. It breaks down toxicity by type and wood. It is best to wear a mask when sanding. My Dad turned me several sets of handles for my espresso machine using Cocobolo (which happens to be very toxic) and ended up with a chest cold/infection that took months to get rid of. I machine sand my scales on a large belt/disk sander and final sand by hand. I wear a mask during both operations.

Dave, what kind of mask do you use? A regular white dust mask or a more elaborate mask with filters?

Just want to know before I start on those kinds of woods and end up with an infection!

Mark

I use those white throw away masks. Sanding with any kind of power sander creates a lot of dust. I have thought about getting a better mask, but can't justify it for the low output that I produce in terms of scale production. I also however have a shop vac which I hook up to my various power tools. With my belt sander it works wonders... literally no dust anywhere outside of the vac itself! So sometimes I don't even use a mask, although lately I have thought about it in concern for safety more and used one. I even hold the shop vac tube sometimes while sanding with the dremel. It takes a lot of that wood dust out of the air. Sorry we're getting a little off topic.

I just use a white throw away mask. A large belt/disk combo bench sander can kick up a lot of dust. Dad went all out and got a fancy full face respirator/visor. It encompasses his entire face and most of his head; it reminds me of the hood from HAZMAT monkey suite. I thought it was excessive but I did not cough up my lungs for three months either. Sanding on a lathe will kick up a lot of dust even with a dust collector running.

Back to the topic at hand, I cut a test set of oak scales and poured an epoxy finish on them. I like it, but my technique needs worked on. I had a problem with the epoxy pouring evenly but I had also stained the scales. I believe the epoxy wanted to run off instead of adhering to the wood. A brush on would have worked better. The walnut I put 4 coats of polyurethane on. They turned out pretty good for my first try.

Originally Posted by Milton Man

Dave, what kind of mask do you use? A regular white dust mask or a more elaborate mask with filters?

Just want to know before I start on those kinds of woods and end up with an infection!

Mark

Hello Mark, here's one of the respirators I use, it's a 3m 7500. Light weight, soft and really seals well around the lower face.... even with my big ol' stash. They are cheap, around $30, cheaper than a lung infection... or worse. I can not say enough to you guys about proper respiration while you are working with some of these woods. Don't waste your money on those cheap paper titty-cups, they don't work. In my line of work you don't mess around with your lungs. When I work on my hobbies I always wear protection from the dust. This dust will build up over time in your lungs. You can't cough it all up. Later on, it might kill you.

I'm with you on the 3m masks Dennis.Luckily I get them from work for free and can get all the cartridges I need at no cost. They keep absolutely all organic compounds out of your lungs.

Years ago I used to use "Hobby Poxy" (no longer made) clear epoxy to coat RC model boats. Same idea should work for razor scales.

This company seems to make a good, tough epoxy paint. Available in many different colors, including clear. It is even nitro-fuel proof. Should be quick and easy to apply. I'm not sure about the cost comparison to CA.