Thread: Handsanding howto

Most of the time is spent on the low grit stages.
The 120 grit takes a long time to get rid of pitting and damage.
Then next grit takes a long time because the blade will be deeply scratched at that point.

But from 400 onwards, if goes quicker and quicker, since you only have to get rid of the sanding scratches of the previous grit.
th 2000 stage only takes < 10 min per blade face.

Power tools can increase your speed, but the time intensive part -> 120 is where a power tool could do a lot of damage before you even know what happened.

I am not a luddite. If anyone knows a way to safely speed up the process then please tell us how. The low grit stage is usually where I think 'Why TF am I doing this'

This is also the reason I don't base the price for my restorations on the number of hours spent. I go for perfection, and it takes as long as it takes.

10 hours is a long time, but the results are stunning, and the process is safe.

Additionally, I can do this while sitting in the couch next to my wife, instead of in the garage where I can work with power tools.

Originally Posted by Bruno

Power tools can increase your speed, but the time intensive part -> 120 is where a power tool could do a lot of damage before you even know what happened.

Amen! I've only done it once but at the end of a few hours of buffing / polishing and then watching the dremel kick and chip the edge was enough to put me in a sour mood for a day or so...

Hopefully this may help.

The process I see is a contoured sanding job. My concern is in flattening or altering the curved surface of the blade and uneven sanding. What some woodworkers do to sand curves is create a mold from the item being sanded using bondo or some other automotive filler.

To do this you:
coat the item with a release agent (for Bondo I would use polyvinyl alchohol)

fill the concave surface with bondo until level and above anything you wish to sand

let dry

remove bondo

hot glue new bondo mold to flat item (wood block)

glue/wrap sandpaper to/around custom mold.


With such a mold you could leave the mold in place and move the blade back and forth over it.


If one were feeling creative and wanted to reduce the time factor I suggest creating a jig to replicate the reciprocal motion of your hand rubbing the two objects. The cheapest way I can think of is to use an existing motor which has a back and forth motion (a variable speed jigsaw comes to mind). I'd create a blade rest (setting on a workbench) and the bondo contour sander I'd mentioned. I'd attach the bondo sander to the jig saw (perhaps by gluing the wood on the sander to a jigsaw blade). Then I'd create a jig to hold the jigsaw in place (tool bottom perpendicular to the bench top), custom sander tip aligned with the blade face on the blade rest. I'd set the motor to the slowest setting to avoid heat build up. The rest is a matter of pressing the button on the jigsaw and timing it.

This is about the simplest thing I have found to help sanding, yet has helped tremendously:

http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=5237

They are basically what Bruno uses, but much smaller (still fit the fingers great! Comfortable), quicker, easier, and they give more options. I have one set of these things and I cannot find a shape that I don't have one of these for. Really, check them out. I have a Woodcraft by me, so I just went there...

Those things look very useful indeed. I think I am going to have to give them a try.

My O my this thread is chock full of great info. I'll be trying out the contour pads...If not the bondo seems very doable. The bondo mold would be reproduceable for many a razor of the same hollow.
Aaaah it's great to eavesdrop on these conversations as I make my way thru the den to the hot tub...
Scuse me ....comin thru....

Thank you Bruno

I have to try that, se it I can get some work done on the blade .......not just talking and thinking.......

Originally Posted by Philadelph

This is about the simplest thing I have found to help sanding, yet has helped tremendously:

Contour Sanding Pads - Woodcraft.com

They are basically what Bruno uses, but much smaller (still fit the fingers great! Comfortable), quicker, easier, and they give more options. I have one set of these things and I cannot find a shape that I don't have one of these for. Really, check them out. I have a Woodcraft by me, so I just went there...

Thanks, Alex (Philly) -

I just ordered a set!

Steve

Do you really need a sanding block?? I used my bare hands and got a nice polish on the blade Im working on. I even used just my hand when i polished with the Flitz. If it makes it easier of has better results ill try it, please tell me you thoughts on this.

A sanding block takes alot of the load off of your finger tendons. It also gives an added layer of protection between you and that sandpaper-sharpened edge!