Thread: Handsanding howto

Thank you Bruno

I have to try that, se it I can get some work done on the blade .......not just talking and thinking.......

I just found out there's a Woodcraft store in town. Going to have to go down there and pick up some of those sanding pads Alex pointed out.

are you using dry papers or wet? from the look of that it looks like dry, just wonderin cuz im about to try to clean up a blade, first timer

Thanks for the useful info in these posts guys. I was wondering, is it complete overkill to continue on with the micro-mesh pads after the 2k paper? Is there anything to be gained by continuing up the progression to say an 8k micro-mesh pad? I've always just stopped at 1.2k as this is the highest grit I can get physically from my local shops. But there's a guy on Australian ebay selling micro-mesh pads from 2k up to 8k - worth it, or just a waste of time?

James.

Originally Posted by Jimbo

Thanks for the useful info in these posts guys. I was wondering, is it complete overkill to continue on with the micro-mesh pads after the 2k paper? Is there anything to be gained by continuing up the progression to say an 8k micro-mesh pad? I've always just stopped at 1.2k as this is the highest grit I can get physically from my local shops. But there's a guy on Australian ebay selling micro-mesh pads from 2k up to 8k - worth it, or just a waste of time?

James.

Micro Mesh pads are amazing. Problem is the price but they do outlast ordinary papers.
The grit size is actually bigger than labelled ie 3200 is around 1200 US Grit but the scratch pattern is nothing like 1200. It is an even smooth pattern with no odd size scratches as with ordinary wetndri.
Don't have any razor pics but this is a macro shot of a tanto I finished with 12000 Micromesh = to 2micron. No buffing.

Nice pic. I was just going to ask if that was layered steel because of the texture of the steel. But then I noticed it was a tanto so I guess that answers my question.
Really nice looking steel.

Originally Posted by Bruno

Nice pic. I was just going to ask if that was layered steel because of the texture of the steel. But then I noticed it was a tanto so I guess that answers my question.
Really nice looking steel.

Thanx Bruno.
Alas, not a folded blade. The finish was a bit of a surprise for me as its actually 5160 monosteel by Kris Cutlery.
It was just a fluke on my part as I was trying to bring out the hamon which is notoriously hard to do with 5160. I think I gave it over 20 vinegar baths and as it showed up so did the alloy banding. I think there are a few steels that will do this if etched. 1095 comes to mind. It's a pleasant anomaly but might be dependent on how homogenous or not the steel is.

BTW Cool thread with great ideas.

Originally Posted by ctufano

are you using dry papers or wet? from the look of that it looks like dry, just wonderin cuz im about to try to clean up a blade, first timer

It goes quicker and works better using the sandpaper wet. Make sure it is wet/dry/waterproof paper in the first place though.

I've been using WD-40 since I read in another post where gsixxsgun recommended it, with the wet/dry norton sandpaper. Was a little hard to find all of the grits, but I got them all at once the other day from a woodcraft.

Actually, WD-40 is an interesting idea.

I don't use water because that is very risky at lower grits.

With 240 or even 400 - 600 grit, you leave significant scratch lines that will grab water. If you leve the blade exposed to air even a very short time, it will start to rust under your very nose.

I once used a small wet grinder to experiment with, and even though I was continuously working the blade, it had oxidized patches when I was done. The oxidation ran deep in the scratch lines, and took a lot of extra sanding to get out.

I'll give WD-40 a try, but I normally use my sandpaper dry.