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    Senior Member Earthdawn's Avatar
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    How can you tell when your really at the point where you should move up in grit ?

    Obviously I have found myself doing this

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    Never a dull moment hoglahoo's Avatar
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    I move up when ALL the pits and rust that I want out are gone
    Find me on SRP's official chat in ##srp on Freenode. Link is at top of SRP's homepage

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    Heat it and beat it Bruno's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hoglahoo View Post
    I move up when ALL the pits and rust that I want out are gone
    Yes. Going up sooner than that only takes more time, because removing pitting at 80 grit is faster than removing pitting at 320 grit.
    If you get rid of all the damage first, all the next grits are solely for getting rid of the scratch lines of the previous grit.
    gromowski45 likes this.
    Til shade is gone, til water is gone, Into the shadow with teeth bared, screaming defiance with the last breath.
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    Comrade in Arms Alraz's Avatar
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    Have any of you guys ripped a blade by going to deep into the pitting? I wonder if this is something to worry about when sanding.

    Al raz.

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    Heat it and beat it Bruno's Avatar
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    Yes. See here for pics:
    http://straightrazorpalace.com/galle...shed-last.html

    The rot had made the blade so thing that the tip fell off
    But it was only the toe, so I just made it shorter and turned it into a notch point.
    Til shade is gone, til water is gone, Into the shadow with teeth bared, screaming defiance with the last breath.
    To spit in Sightblinder’s eye on the Last Day

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    "My words are of iron..."
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    Quote Originally Posted by Earthdawn View Post
    How can you tell when your really at the point where you should move up in grit ?
    This has turned into an outstanding thread!

    Sorry if this is redundant. The point where you move to the next grit is when all the lines from the last grit no longer show. Any step is a good example, say you've done 400 grit and are now working on 600 grit and have changed angle slightly to better see the 400 grit lines. Once all those are gone, the 600 grit is done and you can move along.

    The biggest change in my finish work occurred when I listened to a more experienced maker, and I bought one of those visor thingees with magnifying lenses. If you think your stuff is good enough. Look at it again through a magnifier and prepare to be crushed. Then start again w/lenses. It really makes a difference.

    Anyone remember picture puzzles? The same phenomena works here too. Leave the blade alone for overnight, for a day or so, then go back (with magnifier) and eyeball it again. Stuff just shows up that you swear you didn't leave behind. As with puzzles, you can't see stuff that is right in front of you after staring for a while.

    That being said, you have to decide when to quit. If you use enough magnification, scratches will be there everytime you look, even on stuff that is mirror buffed. There is no such thing as perfect when enough magnification is available.
    “Nothing discloses real character like the use of power. Most people can bear adversity. But if you wish to know what a man really is, give him power.” R.G.Ingersoll

  7. The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to Mike Blue For This Useful Post:

    Earthdawn (10-22-2008), gromowski45 (02-23-2016), Slawman (12-09-2015)

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