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Thread: Pivot pin rust prevention
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02-15-2008, 11:10 AM #11
- Join Date
- Jan 2008
- Location
- Brisbane, Australia
- Posts
- 30
Thanked: 1I have tried silicone grease on a razor I have at the moment. Thought it was worth a go as I had a tube of the stuff already.
I have the scales attached with a M2.5 stainless bolt and nut with 4 stainless washers (both sides of both scales).
I filled the hole and coated the bolt and washers with the clear silicone grease and assembled it. After wiping the excess off you can't see it (probably not even with clear scales). It happily keeps the water at bay.
The Silicone grease is used in electrical, optical and other industries and is pretty good stuff.
Just my $0.02, I'm no expert so take it for what it is worth
Cheers,
Ash.
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02-15-2008, 01:15 PM #12
I use Militec1 on my razors, blades and pins, and have never had a problem with corrosion. You bake it on with a hairdryer, it is not waxy or oily at all.
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02-15-2008, 01:24 PM #13
- Join Date
- Sep 2007
- Posts
- 711
Thanked: 22I think Gary it talking more along the permanent lines no?
As in you only need one application in the pivot hole forever, well 10 years or so.
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02-15-2008, 04:59 PM #14
Gary,
After you treat with the Naval Jelly, do you clean up the area?
I missed that part (coffee has not hit yet)
C utz
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02-15-2008, 10:10 PM #15
- Join Date
- Jan 2008
- Posts
- 3,446
Thanked: 416isent navel jelly a corosive? I have used it to remove rust.
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02-15-2008, 10:58 PM #16
- Join Date
- Oct 2005
- Location
- Winnipeg Manitoba Canada
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- 1,333
Thanked: 351I spent some time at work thinking about this issue and I started to wonder about using sacrificial washers. Considering the limited exposure the joint has to water and that generally, soap doesn't really increase the corrosion factor, perhaps a pair of sacrificial washers made from zinc might work well and should surely last 10 years or more given normal use. The only fly in the ointment I can see would be the use of brass for the pin, I don't remember that much from my physics/chemistry class, but a third metal kind of muddies the water. Perhaps a switch to stainless for the pin might work better? I do know that I have to place a piece of stainless steel between copper and zinc coated steel (aka galvanized steel) when grounding steel towers to avoid nasty corrosion issues and brass contains copper so....
Christian
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02-16-2008, 04:09 AM #17
- Join Date
- Apr 2007
- Posts
- 8
Thanked: 0Boeshield T9 is a great bicycle lubricant. It works well, better than the commonly used lubes. The package describes it as a "unique solvent and parrafin wax formula penetrates, cleans, and displaces moisture. Dries to a thin film that lubricates and protects for (here is the good part for those with long jaws) HUNDREDS OF MILES."