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Thread: Restoration gear questions
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02-18-2008, 10:34 PM #11
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Thanked: 351Sorry, I shouldn't have posted the sanding drum one... Some of them can be used but only the small ones with the very fine grit and with great care. The flap wheel is by far the better choice though I prefer the scotch bright type for most work unless it's really really bad.
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02-18-2008, 10:58 PM #12
Thanks for the replies, gents.
I'm running out of options here. The store has a "rotary flap sander" that works wood, plastic and metal. Will that work?
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02-19-2008, 01:46 AM #13
That sounds like a flapwheel to me.
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02-19-2008, 02:00 AM #14
It doesn't say what grit it is though. THat could be dangerous if it were any lower than like 300-400. Leon, are you talking about these accesories for restoring a blade? i.e. getting out pitting etc? If so, then hand sanding is really the way you have to go.
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02-19-2008, 03:49 AM #15
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Thanked: 351Guys, I don't use a flap wheel but the one in the link that Leon gave us, looks to be at least 2" in diameter if not larger and is meant for a hand drill or drill press. I would consider that a bit too large for restoration work unless you know what you are doing. I could be wrong though... frankly I don't even like the things, they never seem to work all that well for me.
Christian
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02-19-2008, 08:08 AM #16
I wouldn't use a a drum or a flap wheel on bakelite or celluloid scales. I'm just guessing the at the rpm's that a rotary tool (even on lowest setting) runs at, that it would burn into a set of scales pretty quickly. I would go with hand sanding and maybe finish with polishing using the rotary tool and a felt wheel.
I'm not sure of the above as I have never tried it; but I can envision a drum or flap wheel cutting through a set of scales like a hot knife through butter. If it was me, I'd play it safe and do it by hand.
Good Luck,
-Pary
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02-19-2008, 08:26 AM #17
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Thanked: 416celluloid may burst into flames with enough friction