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Thread: More warped scales
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02-23-2008, 05:47 PM #1
More warped scales
I just received a couple of razors with warped scales (eBay). One was described as NOS and mint - in a pristine condition. The blade is touching one side of the scales and one side obviously bulges. Now, I read the advice by Traveller re 'baking' and popsicle/copper wire treatment. I am not willing to do this at the moment. Part coward/inexperienced and partly cos I paid good money and either want them refunded or fixed by someone who has done it before and has skill/experience. So I suppose the question is how much would a scale straightening repair cost? This to at least give me a ball park figure to discuss with the seller.
cheers
Stephen
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02-23-2008, 07:56 PM #2
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Thanked: 13247One thing that you have to take into consideration is that it will NOT be NOS any more it will have to be repinned....
This is the depreciation that I would be worried about, I've said this before in other threads . We, in this community are into shaving with our razors, but there is another whole other community, that collects razors for just the sake of collecting, and a re-pinned razor loses huge value in their eyes...
Putting this back on track, the safer way of straightening scales is the boiling water method IMHO...
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02-23-2008, 08:41 PM #3
^ +1
Boiling mine fixed them right up, and it only took about 10 minutes from start to finish.
((One thing to watch out for though: The steam from the water is VERY HOT. I almost dropped my razor because the blade heated up too. So just wear a pair of gloves so that you don't run the risk of dropping it due to heat!))
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02-25-2008, 10:06 PM #4
I typically do scale straighting as a part of a restoration job. I suspect the razor was exposed to heat at one time which caused the warp. I recently resorted a new razor for a local shop. Somebody had left the razor in direct sunlight and they were writing it off as a lose. I straightened the scales and honed it for shave ready. So it can be done without any problem. But your right. It's not a task for the faint at heart.
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02-26-2008, 12:18 AM #5
I can say for sure the boiling water trick works for horn (at least temporarily). I Soaked the scales in the boiling water for 1 minute, pulled them out, put a tapered chopstick inbetween, flexed them, and then into cold running water while flexed!
You definately need to be holding the scales in the desired position when putting them under the cold water. You can't just mold them then harden. And It took me about 4 tries to get it right so... try and try again!
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02-26-2008, 08:01 AM #6
The straightening is fine and dandy with this method, it's just the potential for discolouration. I have started polishing the black plastic now to try and get rid of the milky colouration created. It isn't shifting much as yet.
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02-27-2008, 04:46 AM #7
Yikes! That milky discoloration will be difficult to polish out… the plastic is not celluloid, it’s more recent (and slightly more brittle) once used to make to make combs.
I have a scale that looks black but if you shine a bright light (a very bright light) through it will look toffee brown with black swirling.
When I put it in boiling water the surface turned milky white and it took my fingerprints when touched.
Does it have any inserts? Or other decoration?
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02-27-2008, 08:01 AM #8
It has a silver (prob steel?) logo insert. Pity cos I reckon they are now going to have to go. Perhaps a marker for the hard of understanding (i.e me, in this instance) should go up re trying this method with plastics as opposed to anything else. Unless I try something more aggressive first like get out the 400 grit and work up. That is all I can think to do now - but I am sure there are other thoughts...
cheers
Stephen
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02-27-2008, 05:02 PM #9
No... don't use sandpaper... there is an better way. This method will remove the milk but you must be sure it’s not celluloid.
This worked for me.
Go to the pharmacy and get some nail polish remover, cost about $5 (get the colorless one in the glass bottle, is says “non toxic”, don't get the one in the plastic bottle)
Pour about 1½ tee spoon in a small container (like a large bottle cap)
Dip a folded square of paper towel in it to soak up the remover wait a few seconds for the remover to spread through the paper towel is and damp (not wet), before its dry
rub the scale with the towel.
First it may feel sticky (like its melting the plastic) but keep rubbing, as the towel dries it will smooth out and get slick like it polishing.
Use a little pressure but not too much if it’s sticky, just use a light stroke let the remover go its work.
Do one half of one scale first then do the other.
If you don’t get all of the “milk” you can pour some more remover and reapply, in any case don’t worry it will be easier to polish them out buy rubbing harder with the now dry towel.
Notes:
-This stuff is acetone and flammable so do this somewhere ventilated… NO smoking warnings ect… you get the picture.
-It will not harm the metal inserts or the blade.
-DO not use the remover on celluloid plastic.
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02-27-2008, 07:55 PM #10
Thanks Smythe
I had a bottle of acetone in the house. It did the job. It did feel like it was melting it and the towel went black on the first pass but I kept going and it smoothed out just fine. Both sides polished up a treat - so now the scales are straight, blade fits fine in the middle and the plastic scales are black and glossy. Thanks again - a good tip to remember.
Stephen