Thread: Need Help with W&B Restoration...

Hi,
I'm new at this and the work I've done comes from Lynn's video. This is a Wade and Butcher "United States Razor" about 5.5" from toe to tang. There was no major rust on this blade, just some black, I would assume this is tarnish, not sure if I'm right there. Anyway, I used some Flitz and some dremel felt pads and got it pretty clear, but there are still some dark black patches, especially on the back of the blade by the barber's notch which you can see by the before and after pictures. The only area that concerns me is the pivot in betweent he tang and monkey tail, where its hard to get in there to clean. So my next thought was removing the blade. Now I ordered Bill's CD, but for a person that doesn't have much free time, I actually have a bit this weekend. I have a drill press and would like to get started so here are my questions:

1. Is it NECESSARY to remove the blade to get the best cleaning possible (obviously worried, don't want corrosion to spread)?

2. How far do you drill in? It seems from posts you dont go all the way through and use a 1/16 drill bit.

3. If I do remove the blade can I buy the pins in my local hardware store?

4. To remove the black on the blade (polished removed some) will I have to use sandpaper or keep polishing?

5. I looked for stickys but don't see any. Any good threads on restoration I can follow?

6. List of materials to buy.

Sorry for the loaded question and thanks in advance.

Before:





After:

This forum software has an excellent search function that would have gave you the answers to all of these questions.
1) No, but it's highly recommended. It's not difficult to remove and re-pin the blade. It would save you more time in the long run.
2) I would just put a piece of tape over the pin and grind off the head with the dremel. Easier than drilling.
3) Hobby shops carry 1/16" brass rods and usually #0 and #0w brass washers. If not, you can always order them from microfasteners.com
4) You can use sand-paper, flap wheels, radial bristle discs or any combination of those 3. These days, I start with 120 grit flap wheels, go on to 240 to 400 (decent satin finish) and then I move onto radial bristle discs to give the blades a mirror finish. Finishing it up with flitz is not a bad idea.
5) The search feature (especially if you go advanced) is amazing with vB software. Use it.
6) I already mentioned all you would need for good resto jobs. Now, if you want to make your own scales, there are lots of ways to go about it. Again, use the search feature or browse the resto forum.

But if he uses the sanpaper he will lose the blade etching, won't he?

Originally Posted by Seraphim

But if he uses the sanpaper he will lose the blade etching, won't he?

It depends on how deep the etching is into the steel. I tape up the etching and save it. When I'm doing final polish, I polish it also.

Originally Posted by Seraphim

But if he uses the sanpaper he will lose the blade etching, won't he?

He might, but there's no other way to get the black out probably. As for removing the pins: Firestart said you don't need to remove the blade to get the "best cleaning possible", but I would disagree. To get "the best cleaning POSSIBLE" yes, you do need to remove the blade to attack the pivot area (which can get pretty rusted/corroded under the scales. He also suggested flap wheels and all the dremel stuff, but sanding by hand is always a good option (I always hand-sand) even though it may take longer.

Besides all that stuff, I'd suggest getting Bill's restoration cd HERE.

Originally Posted by Philadelph

He might, but there's no other way to get the black out probably. As for removing the pins: Firestart said you don't need to remove the blade to get the "best cleaning possible", but I would disagree. To get "the best cleaning POSSIBLE" yes, you do need to remove the blade to attack the pivot area (which can get pretty rusted/corroded under the scales. He also suggested flap wheels and all the dremel stuff, but sanding by hand is always a good option (I always hand-sand) even though it may take longer.

Besides all that stuff, I'd suggest getting Bill's restoration cd HERE.

+1, You just don't know what problems you have under the scales. I have had horn scales that looked good outside but were very rotten around the pivot area inside. I also agree that there is no reason for flap wheels on this blade. I use flap wheels on very deep pits on very heavy blades. But for the best mirror finish, it the hand sanding route. Patience is the key. If you are in a hurry to get through the project, step away or go do something else for awhile. Otherwise you're in for a lot more frustration and you can easily do permanent damage to the razor. Let's have a show of hands, how many of us have whacked a pin out of frustration only to see the scales split?